June 10, 2025

Ground Up 21: High Country Highlights with Sam Dospoy

Ground Up 21: High Country Highlights with Sam Dospoy
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Ground Up 21: High Country Highlights with Sam Dospoy

In this episode, we sit down with Boone local Sam Dospoy—woodworker, van builder, and climber deeply rooted in North Carolina’s High Country. Sam shares how a two-year stint dirtbagging in a minivan sparked both his love of climbing and his custom van build business, Stand-Up Vans. We dig into his early days of bouldering over couch cushions at Blowing Rock, the tight-knit and low-beta climbing scene in Boone, and his progression into bold trad climbing and first ascents.

Sam reflects on mentorship, the local ethics around development, and the draw of uncovering untouched rock. We also get into the nitty gritty of what it takes to repeat some of 221's most infamous and hardest trad routes, his futuristic project at Hawksbill, how bouldering has shaped his trad climbing, and what it looks like bolting steep routes ground up while hanging from sketchy hooks.

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Climbing in Boone with Sam Dospoy: https://youtu.be/rEkMJdHC4gs?si=yB0C2b23oQV64-Gc

The Castaway - Ship Rock: https://youtu.be/h6DG1F8K5qQ?si=IYFZRSrYfohA1NVV

Blowing Rock Boulders: https://youtu.be/rEkMJdHC4gs?si=yB0C2b23oQV64-Gc

Fire in the Hole: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/117126148/fire-in-the-hole

Hawksbill Project: https://www.instagram.com/p/B571Y-XD-gN/

Heirloom (Moon Rocks Corridor Project): https://www.instagram.com/p/CM7QCbtDzZo/

Ishmael (Stack Rock): https://www.instagram.com/p/BaJ61_CAQ-H/

Pyramid Scheme: https://www.instagram.com/reel/B8l_ZwUJ_Pc/

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Follow Joel on Instagram: @sam_ayye_am

Check out Stand Up Vans on Instagram: @standupvans

Find a Stand Up Van that's right for you!

-

Follow along on Instagram: @listentogroundup 

Check out our new website: https://www.thegrounduppodcast.com/

Sign up for the Mailing List!

 

Transcript
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Sam
hard to, yeah, it's just really cool that y'all get to inter interview him.

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Robert
Yeah. He certainly lived some lives too, you know, like he kind of had a couple different periods, but yeah, it was a fun one for sure.

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Ari Grode
Yeah.

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Sam
Yeah.

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Ari Grode
Yeah. Yeah. So I would just hate to record one of these and then, you know, find out at the end that we got no audio from the guests.

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Sam
Oh, yeah.

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Ari Grode
I wouldn't even know what to say, you know,

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Sam
Totally.

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Robert
Yeah.

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Sam
It's like, oh, I want to do do that again. so

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Robert
Yeah. You crushed it. We botched it.

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Sam
yeah.

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Robert
Let's run it back.

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Sam
But, yeah, I got a little head cold that I'm, like, still kind of recovering from a little bit.

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Robert
Um,

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Sam
I know it's probably like kind of gross to those people listen to people sniffling on a podcast, but I'll try to keep it down a little bit.

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Ari Grode
That's all right. We can, we can edit, we can edit it out.

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Sam
Added to sniffles. Okay.

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Robert
Yeah, yeah. No worries.

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Sam
Cool.

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Ari Grode
looks like you're, you said you're in your garage. Like this is where you're, cause you do a, you do van work, right?

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Sam
yeah mean Yeah, I'm in my shop here. So that's the shop. Got a sprinter, pro master, the tools and stuff. Got a board right there.

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Ari Grode
I got the, got the Woody.

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Sam
little training wall.

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Robert
Oh, that's rad.

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Sam
Yeah, man.

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Robert
That's rad.

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Sam
Yeah.

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Robert
Yeah,

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Sam
Yeah, it's a sweet zone, dude. I enjoy it here.

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Robert
yeah that's sick.

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Sam
It's fun coming to work.

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Ari Grode
What do you, you're like, uh, you're building out people's vans basically. Is that the business?

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Sam
Yep.

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Ari Grode
Okay.

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Sam
Yep.

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Ari Grode
Okay.

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Robert
what's What's the name?

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Ari Grode
How long you been doing that for?

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Robert
Yeah, what's the name of the business too?

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Ari Grode
Sorry.

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Sam
It's a stand-up van, and i've been doing it for about six years now.

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Robert
Yeah.

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Sam
So, yeah.

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Ari Grode
Oh, cool.

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Sam
Yeah, it's fun, man.

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Ari Grode
What got you into that?

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Sam
Well, I lived in a van for two years, just traveling around. and Are we starting, by the

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Robert
Yeah, yeah, yeah.

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Ari Grode
Yeah, we're, we're rolling.

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Sam
Rolling. Okay, cool. um Yeah. So I lived in a van for two years. It was a minivan Honda Odyssey. ah Just traveled around out West, climbed a good bit.

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Sam
um Spent some time in like California and where else? Arizona, Waco tanks, just like dirtbagging basically. And

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Sam
i Saw all these six sprinters and was like, dude, I need that. You know, I need a van I can stand up in. And that's like where I got the name for the business.

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Robert
Oh, nice.

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Sam
um

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Ari Grode
That's clever, yeah.

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Sam
Yeah. And, uh, but yeah, man. Yeah. So I just did that for a while. And eventually was like, I need my own van and built my own out and did one. Would've been it for a while, took it a apart, built it out. Nice. Sold it. And then that kind of like got me rolling and yeah, I've been doing it ever since.

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Robert
Love that.

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Ari Grode
Did you have kind of a mechanical the like background like that?

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Sam
So.

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Ari Grode
Or did was this a lot of learn on the fly type of stuff?

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Sam
Yeah. So a lot of it was learned on the fly for sure. Like with the systems, like electrical systems, plumbing systems, heating, all that. I learned a lot of that on the fly. And then some through like some different training courses I took and um through friends who, you know, like I got an electrician buddy who ah does that work. And so he kind of got me started on some of that stuff. um But I went to product design school and then,

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Sam
I did a lot of like furniture design classes when I was there and that's like what I was really into. So the woodworking part came pretty naturally. And then I've done different like carpentry jobs and work in that field for a while prior to doing the van building.

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Sam
So had a good setup of like tools and knowledge on how to build stuff. ah Yeah.

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Ari Grode
you you got to partner up with uh pat goodman i know he does like custom floors get it get like a custom floor in the van yeah yeah they're like works of art

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Sam
Oh yeah. Dude, yeah, Pat kills it, man. Yeah, dude. Oh, I know. is His floors are so cool. yeah Yeah, he does really cool work um and also puts up or has put up a lot of cool routes as well. But, yeah, Pat's the man.

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Sam
and

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Ari Grode
yeah yeah we're trying trying

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Sam
Have y'all had him on the podcast?

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Robert
He's on the list.

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Sam
He's on the list.

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Robert
Yeah.

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Sam
Cool. Yeah, he'd be good one, man.

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Ari Grode
He's, I think he's a little, i think he's a little hesitant to sit down, uh, you know, as a lot of people are, but we're, we're hoping that eventually we'll, he'll, he'll break and and come on.

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Ari Grode
Cause yeah, he's, I mean, man, he's got, yeah.

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Robert
Yeah, just named a crack.

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Sam
ah Yeah.

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Robert
Do you know him pretty well?

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Ari Grode
So you're,

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Sam
Man, I know Pat decently well. Yeah, we've we've climbed together a few times and, um you know, chatted a decent bit about different routes that he's put up around here. um yeah know, I think we maybe first started chatting or met whenever i was trying Ishmael for the first time and, you know, chatting with him about that.

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Robert
ok Okay. Okay.

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Sam
no But yeah, man. Yeah. pat Pat's a buddy and he's he's super cool. And yeah, I respect him a lot for sure.

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Robert
Yeah, he's...

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Ari Grode
Yeah, i mean, he's kind of a legend in the area that... Because you're you're in the you're in like the high country area, right?

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Sam
Yeah, high country, North Carolina. Yeah, I live in like Lindville Falls area. So I'm like five minutes from Lindville Gorge.

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Ari Grode
Okay.

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Sam
My shop's in Boone though.

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Ari Grode
Oh, wow.

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Sam
And yeah, lived in Boone for think like 17 years now.

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Ari Grode
Okay.

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Sam
So originally, was born in Chicago, moved to Asheville when I was 11 years old.

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Ari Grode
Are you from that area, or

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Sam
And then I feel like I kind of grew up in Asheville and then moved to Boone to go to school at App State. And yeah, stuck around, man.

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Ari Grode
OK.

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Sam
Still here and you know, traveled and lived different places for short periods of time, but yeah, I always ended up coming back here.

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Ari Grode
Yeah, I think the ahead, Rob.

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Robert
Did you go ahead Ari? No, was going to say when you were living in that, like, did you start climbing when you were in, in Asheville or was it like once you kind of went to App State and then we're in Boone, it's like, okay, this is kind of fun.

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Sam
Yeah, I started climbing when I came up here Boone to go to, yeah, my sophomore year from college, I think I was like 20 years old, started climbing, and yeah, it's like,

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Robert
Cool.

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Robert
Nice.

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Sam
Pretty awesome place to start climbing. There's you know it's boulders within like 15 minutes of town or less. So yeah, was pretty quick transition from like being a climber at the gym here at the college to going outside and climbing.

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Robert
Yeah, the access would be incredible.

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Ari Grode
Yeah, I'm pretty stoked.

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Robert
Like, I feel like, um, i had a similar trajectory where I was like, okay, once I was in college, our school had a climbing gym and that's how I kind of like got into it. But then I was in the middle of Philadelphia.

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Sam
Mm-hmm.

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Robert
So there wasn't boulders 15 minutes from school.

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Sam
Oh, yeah.

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Robert
There wasn't like a lot of sport crags or like, you know, there's some choss piles a little ways away, but like, I didn't have that transition into outdoor climbing until much later on. What was it like being able to you know, rock up to a place like the dump or, or go bold or somewhere like 15 minutes away, as you said, as like a college kid while you're, while you're learning how to climb as well.

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Sam
Man, it was awesome. it was It was super fun. You know, like you kind of get little glimpses here and there from folks of like where the – rock climbing is and you know you have a buddy whose like brother took him there like five years ago and you're like try to find the place again you know because there wasn't information out whenever I first started climbing you know like um you know Kaya wasn't a thing not that it's really a thing here anyways but you know there wasn't a guidebook for the area there's really no information the only thing that was out there was this website called Boone Boulders that my buddy Matt DeCamera made and it was like ah website with

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Robert
Nice.

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Sam
like maybe 20 random YouTube videos of like different boulder problems. and So that was like kind of the information that was out there.

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Robert
That's awesome.

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Sam
um But man, it was a lot of fun, you know, going out with just like total noobs. Like we were all just really fresh and didn't know what we were doing. Like I think the first probably like 10 times I went climbing, we brought ah couch cushions out to the boulders.

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Ari Grode
Nice.

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Sam
So we're like taking diggers on couch cushions, you know, like, ah yeah.

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Ari Grode
nice

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Robert
That's incredible. Were you like grabbing like the beat up ones from like dorms?

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Sam
Yeah, man.

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Robert
I feel like my school used to like toss out couches like every three years and like you could kind of like put that in your apartment or whatever.

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Sam
Oh, yeah.

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Robert
whatever So are you guys just like looking for those little free yard sales from App State or how is that

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Sam
Well, my buddy, yeah, my buddy, he had this like really shitty couch that he just like loved so he was like kind of protective of it but it had this like really long cushion that we would take out it was like maybe like five feet long so he would like hold that over our heads and like hike to the boulders yeah ah

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Robert
That's hilarious.

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Ari Grode
Yeah, that's true. not not Not much of a backpack strap on those couch cushions.

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Sam
no dude yeah that was ridiculous like some people would be out there who are like actual climbers with pads and they're just like oh do you like want to borrow this

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Robert
That's awesome.

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Sam
for this pie bowl you're trying, you know? We're

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Robert
No, dude, this is Tempur-Pedic.

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Sam
like, yeah, we're good, dude.

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Robert
We're set, man. We're we're fine.

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Sam
We're like 20 years old, give a shit, you know? It's funny, but yeah.

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Robert
That's awesome. So wait, it was that was that website that your buddy Matt put together, did that have like strictly videos and beta on like what you were climbing or did it also have approach beta? Like I kind of imagined seeing like four or five college students with gigantic couch cushions, like walking on trails, really not knowing where they're going or like were you guys kind of guessing or did you at least know where you're headed?

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Sam
Dude. Dude.

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Sam
Weird, man. We like maybe got some rough information from some folks, you know, like I think I had one of my buddies, his like brother took him climbing at one of these areas. So we like went to Bowling Rock Boulders and like kind of found it.

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Sam
And then um I remember going to Little Wilson, which is like this crag off to 221.

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Robert
Okay. Yep.

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Ari Grode
Yeah.

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Robert
yep

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Sam
That's like, it's cool for like, you know, your first time climbing or like, um know if you want to go get a few like moderate fishes in, you know, it's pretty cool spot. But he, like the directions for it were like drive down 221 until you see an old fridge and then take a left at the fridge that's like off the side of the road.

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Sam
And that was the direction. And so, yeah, we ended up finding it, but yeah, it's like, there wasn't information really on that website either. It was just kind of like, From what I remember, it was just like random YouTube videos of a few different boulder problems. So if you like knew the zone, like if you knew how to get to Grandmother or Blowing Rock, ah you could probably find the boulder and you have like beta on a climb or two.

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Sam
But yeah, that was kind of the extent of it.

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Ari Grode
Yeah, that's, I think that's something that's kind of unique, and especially nowadays, because I mean, there's still really isn't, I mean, obviously there's more documented social media on people doing some of these, especially the boulders, but that's kind of a unique thing to that area is there's really not like a guidebook or a lot of like true documentation about like all these different areas.

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Robert
Earth.

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Sam
Yeah.

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Ari Grode
I remember, remember, ah My wife and I went out bouldering in in the high country one time and like, it's, it's a fun, it's a different experience, but you, you kind of just, we went to grandmother and it was like, I had done a little bit of searching online for some of these problems, but we really just showed up with a couple of pads and,

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Sam
Mm-hmm.

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Ari Grode
walked around the area and just tried to find what looked cool to climb. And then you'd run into other people out there.

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Sam
Mm-hmm.

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Ari Grode
And it makes for this different experience where instead of, you know, being so problem driven, like guidebook driven, like I'm going to try this, this, and this, you're like, Oh, well, we're just going to out and climb whatever looks cool. And then, you know, we'll partner up with these random people who say, Oh, I'm trying this problem. And so we'll try it with them. And it,

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Ari Grode
I don't know.

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Sam
Yeah, no.

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Ari Grode
it's It's a unique experience that I feel like most people don't have nowadays because everything's so well documented. Like there's guidebooks for everything, approach beta. So like, yeah, maybe maybe speak to that a little bit because that's kind of unique to that that high country 221 area.

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Sam
Yeah.

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Sam
Yeah, man. i mean, that's a great observation and that's exactly what it's like. And, you know, there isn't a guidebook here, which that's, you know, been a conscious decision amongst the community for quite some time now to not have a guidebook.

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Sam
ah I think that's a really cool aspect of the climbing here, you know, to go out to any of these zones, like you have to talk to people and figure out beta and, you know, make connections with folks.

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Sam
And that's, you know, that's your guidebook is, you know, what your homies are telling you. um And so, it is really cool in that way. I think it definitely adds to the community aspect of the area.

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Sam
Um, just getting to meet some old heads, you know, who've been around for a long time and know where everything is. And then, know, not only that, but it's, it's a little bit, uh, more of an adventure, I feel like to go out to these areas and, you know, kind of find your own way. And like you said, go and just climb on whatever looks cool.

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Sam
Um,

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Robert
Yeah, that's...

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Sam
So yeah, that ah that is definitely a cool and unique part of the climbing in the area.

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Robert
yeah I can imagine as a ah college student, especially too, those like little bits of, I guess, misinformation or lack of information also make that like adventure element feel even even more magnified because like you're at that stage of just like, oh, everything's new, everything's cool. like

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Sam
Mm-hmm.

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Robert
what were What were some of your favorite moments or like favorite projects or boulders that like really stood out when you were like just getting into or like okay i'm hooked this is like a blast i'm i'm leaning into this for a while

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Sam
Oh, man. i don't know. That's tough because I feel like it's a constant process of finding a new climb to be psyched on.

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Ari Grode
Thank you.

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Robert
yeah

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Sam
You know, like every, as soon as I send something, I'm like, oh, I want to do this one. And it's like the list never ends. So it's like, yeah, I mean, that definitely started somewhere.

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Sam
I'm trying to remember where, but i would say like probably going going out to Blowing Rock Boulder's was like my first like deep dive into any of the areas around here. um And yeah, I mean, just kind of going up through the grades of Blowing Rock, you know, was like the Mushroom Boulder, you know, there's like probably a bunch of V5s there that are really cool and fun. And then Colt 45 was like my first V7, you know, which is like soft, but

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Sam
it's pretty cool and yeah i remember doing that my buddy tilly i like had just done it and i was like stoked was like dude i was doing cold 45 you know and you he had been around for longer than me and he'd been clowning probably like two or three years before me at this point and uh he's like yeah dude things like pretty hard for v4 isn't it i'm just like damn dude you know so yeah you know it's just classic but uh

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Robert
ah

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Ari Grode
ah

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Ari Grode
roasted oh man

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Robert
I'm sorry.

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Ari Grode
oh man

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Sam
But yeah, man, mean, I'd say like Blowing Rock Boulders is kind of like my first like zone where I like, yeah, really got into it and tried to climb everything I could there. And then, you know, it's like that process is still going. like there's still, you know, stuff there that I haven't done. So, ah you know, it's, yeah, always something new and hard to do. And this area in particular, I feel like sets up for hard climbing really well, hard bouldering for sure. Yeah.

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Sam
just like the rock is so like dense and good here that like don't know, it forms small holds that stay on the wall and aren't jaws. So it's, uh, yeah, there's a lot of hard stuff.

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Sam
Um, but yeah.

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Ari Grode
What did you said this was about, um, like 15, 17 years ago.

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Sam
the

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Ari Grode
What did the, I mean what did the community then look like?

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Sam
Mm-hmm.

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Ari Grode
I mean, who were the, who were the people that were kind of, was there a big bouldering community and then who were some of the people, I guess you maybe looked up to or who were kind of driving, you know, development of the scene?

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Sam
Yeah. I mean, yeah, the scene at that point. So, I mean, the gym scene was basically the SRC at the college, which is like the the rec center. And there was a climbing wall there with like a 50 foot top rope slash lead wall and like a bouldering area below it. And so that was kind of like, that was the gym scene. And that's where I met all of the people I climbed with at the time.

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Sam
Um, There's definitely a community of folks at that time who had been around for quite quite a while and who established a lot of the climbing in the area. People like, um, like Dean Melton, Joey Henson, um like Jim Horton.

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Sam
um you know, those are all like bouldering guys. And then, uh, there's like, you know, Mike Grimm. Mike True. um Those are two of my like early track climbing mentors. and they you know They were around at the time.

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Sam
um But man, there's been like a lot of people developing here throughout the years. And um you know definitely don't want to like try to list them all off because I know forget a bunch of people. but um But yeah, I mean, there's there's definitely a tight community at that time.

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Ari Grode
Yeah. What?

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Sam
And you know also people like Mike Stamm. i'm putting up just like crazy stuff at the time, you know, like intermounting flame, like that boulder problem he put up.

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Sam
Maybe like, I don't even know when that was, like 2007. There's an Andrew Kornlack video about it. It's really cool. um But it's just like, you know, kind of like futuristic for the time.

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Ari Grode
well

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Sam
it's like a gymnastic, like run and jump boulder that's really hard. And, you know, he undergraded everything he did. I feel like during that time, like all of his ascents are like, ah you don't have to take him with a grain of salt because he was so strong.

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Robert
Yeah.

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Ari Grode
you

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Sam
But yeah, and then, you know, Pat Goodman, he's putting up a bunch of hard trad routes at the time. Like Dave Sherritt was doing that with him Mike's name as well. And yeah, man. so there there was a crew of like really good climbers around here putting stuff up for for a while and that They were around whenever I started climbing. I didn't really get into the scene with any of those dudes at all during that time. You know, it was just like a fresh Gumby.

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Sam
um But yeah, like it was cool, like eventually getting to meet a lot of those dudes and hang out with them and become friends. You know, and they're super welcoming and tell you everything that they know and give you beta.

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Sam
And yeah, so yeah, it's a cool part of the community as well.

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Robert
Yeah, that's awesome. you You mentioned Pat, you mentioned you also had a couple of early trad mentors. When did, when did your interest, it sounds like bouldering was like, you kind of like first got introduced to, but when did you start getting interested in climbing some ropes and and pulling on some trad problems?

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Robert
And and what did that process look like early on and how'd that progress a little?

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Sam
I'm trying to think. So I i started bouldering and then it probably took me really not that long to start ah route climbing. I'm trying to think. Maybe I bouldered for like six months or maybe a year before I started route climbing.

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Sam
I think it was just because of yeah was like a poor college student. I didn't have money, so I just had like climbing shoes and a chalk bag for a while.

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Robert
Right.

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Robert
Couple of couch cushions.

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Sam
um

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Robert
Yeah.

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Sam
you Some couch cushions, yeah. ah but yeah Eventually, I went to places like the Dump or Little Wilsons um and yeah started doing some sport climbing.

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Robert
Okay.

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Sam
and so I did that for probably... like four or five years, maybe five years. Yeah. Before I started track climbing. um And then, yeah, like I never really, ah still to this day, haven't really like dug into sport climbing. And I think a lot of that is because of you know, this area doesn't really lend itself to that.

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Sam
There's not a lot of sport climbing options. I mean, there's some, and I feel like I've kind of like done the ones that like I'm stoked on. or like most of them that are around here, um just cause there's not a huge quantity of them really. Um, so trad climbing is kind of like the obvious progression. If you're going to be in this area and you're psyched on climbing routes, like you kind of have to learn how to track climb.

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Sam
Um, and so I started track climbing, um yeah, probably around five years after i started climbing and, I learned from a A couple dudes were like pretty, like, just like important guys that I met at that time who helped me ah figure it out.

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Sam
And those were Mike True and Mike Grimm. um

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Ari Grode
Okay.

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Sam
I met Mike Grimm because he was one of the owners of Misty at the time, Misty Mountain Threadworks.

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Ari Grode
Oh, nice.

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Sam
And I had just started working there.

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Ari Grode
Yeah.

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Sam
I did my internship there and from college. And ah yeah, so I met him and then through him and Mike True.

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Robert
Okay.

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Sam
And, you know, they're like pretty much only trad climbers. ah And they, yeah, they, they got me stoked and showed me how to place gear, you know, how to lead and all that and um learn some cool tricks and tips from them early on. You know, I think having a, having been mentors like that, who've just been around doing it for so long was crucial and really helped me like so much to just learn the ways.

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Sam
track climbing. And also, like, their perspectives were cool, too. You know, like, ah you know, they've been around for so long doing it. And, you know, they're not, like, staunch traditionalists or anything. But, you know, they have definitely, like, they kind of gave me perspective on, like, what it means and why it's cool to, like, do things ground up, for instance. You know, like, and I'm not super hard on ethics at all but um you know it's it's just cool like getting that perspective and learning about the ways that things have been done prior to like you know retro bolting spark climbing uh came around so yeah um so yeah

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Ari Grode
Yeah, one of my first ah like exposures to your climbing was ah like Misty Mountain used to make a couple.

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Robert
Mm-hmm.

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Ari Grode
They had like a couple of pretty cool YouTube videos. They've got one of you doing, I think it's the Castaway at Shiprock.

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Sam
yeah

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Ari Grode
And then there's somebody else doing, i can't I can't remember the person's name, doing the brooch.

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Sam
Oh, yeah.

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Ari Grode
But man, I've watched those videos so many times.

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Sam
Oh, yeah.

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Ari Grode
But ah yeah, yeah, yeah.

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Sam
Yeah, Leaf. I think that was Leaf. He's one of my good buddies. Yeah.

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Ari Grode
leave Leaf Carter, right?

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Sam
Yep.

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Ari Grode
Yeah, that's a sick video. Like such a cool perspective of, of, or such a cool, like, yeah, perspective of that, of him climbing the brooch. Um, I remember watching you climb the ah castaway and just thinking, holy shit, he looks like he's climbing monkey bars right now.

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Ari Grode
Like there those holds must be like absolutely enormous. And I went and climbed it, uh,

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Sam
Man, they're pretty big on the lip there, actually. Those are some pretty good holds.

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Robert
Is that how you describe it, Mari?

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Ari Grode
Yeah, but there is like a jug or two, like real good jugs on it, but a lot of them were a little smaller than I was expecting.

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Sam
but

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Ari Grode
The first time I got on that, I was like, oh shit.

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Sam
Yeah. Oh, have you been on that route?

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Ari Grode
Yeah, I did it. um

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Sam
Nice.

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Ari Grode
I've been on it a couple times, but I did it last, maybe last fall, I think.

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Robert
i think it was last last fall, yeah.

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Sam
Oh, hell yeah.

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Ari Grode
Like la late, yeah, or late summer or something.

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Robert
remember getting texts about it.

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Ari Grode
Yeah. Yeah, finally actually got the send. But I remember just thinking like, oh, these holds have to be like enormous.

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Sam
Nice.

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Ari Grode
He's just like campus and right through it.

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Sam
Yeah,

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Ari Grode
And I was like, oh, they're not they're not quite as good as I was expecting.

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Sam
yeah.

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Robert
ah

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Robert
Yeah.

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Sam
That's funny, man.

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Sam
Yeah.

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Ari Grode
But ah yeah.

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Sam
That's a great route, man. I love that zone. Shiprock, God, the stone there is just like unreal.

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Ari Grode
Oh, the I mean, the castaway is phenomenal.

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Sam
Yeah. Mm-hmm.

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Ari Grode
um Yeah, ship in general, for sure. Yeah. Yeah, I was going to ask. I mean, so you've you've been you were bouldering a lot. So obviously you're building up a base of strength and like power and, you know, all the things that come with bouldering.

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Sam
Mm-hmm.

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Ari Grode
I mean, how did that ah how did your trad climbing take off, you know, with some of those skills that you developed bouldering? Like, did you did you take to it pretty quickly or what did that look like?

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Sam
Yeah, I think so, man. I think bouldering is the key for hard climbing. and It's like the hardest, I feel like the hardest skill or ability to get in climbing is that like strength that you get from bouldering.

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Sam
um And then like the endurance aspect, I feel like comes really quick relatively to that. So yeah, starting from a you know, a bouldering background, I feel like it was is a good transition.

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Sam
into route climbing and especially this area because know the boulders are this or like the route climbing is essentially just like an extension of the bouldering like all the cliffs that are on the side of grandfather like on 221 or above 221 are it's the same rock that's below know like all those boulders like fell off of the cliffs so like just learning how to climb on that specific rock I feel like really helped with the route climbing

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Ari Grode
Did you, I mean, were you mainly just repeating classics or, i mean, what did that look like?

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Sam
Yeah.

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Ari Grode
Cause I mean, you've got some, you know, you, you've eventually done some, either some really significant repeats of, of some test pieces or like put up some of your own lines. I mean, I guess talk us through that a little bit.

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Sam
yeah um Yeah, man. So I like, yeah, just kind of work through the classics, you know, projected thing. My first 512 was unwritten law at the dump, you know, that pretty classic fun.

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Robert
Nice. Yeah, yeah. Huge dino, yeah.

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Sam
Yeah, Dino Route. And yeah, man, just kind of worked through the worked up through the classics and the grades through, yeah, sport climbing at at the dump. And then, yeah, trad climbing at Shiprock. shipwrock and took some trips up to the new, which I think is the best cragging on the planet.

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Ari Grode
Oh yeah.

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Sam
We haven't been to a lot of, like, that really that many cragging areas, but God, it's so good. Like anytime I go out West and climate, you know, places like the Valley or you know, Tahoe or, you know, tree or wherever, you know, like these classic areas that are, you know, world known. It's like coming back to the new, I'm always just like, man, this is just the best place for rock climbing. Like it's so good.

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Robert
The new is pretty mega.

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Sam
um But yeah, it's so mega dude.

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Robert
It's hard to beat for sure.

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Sam
God, the trad and the sport. um everything yeah so and bouldering yeah um but yeah so

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Robert
Everything.

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Robert
Were you, were you climbing more? You climbing when you got the new, like, were you still in that kind of sport climbing phase? I mean, know that was short lived for you, but like, was that mainly sport climbing or were you doing trad when you went up there?

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Sam
yeah i man every time i go to the new i usually do a mix um i feel like i always go there with the attention sport climbing and then end up track climbing

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Robert
Okay.

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Sam
And the, like, I have to like consciously be like, okay, I'm not taking any gear with me right now. Like I'm only going sport climb today.

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Ari Grode
Ha ha ha.

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Sam
Um, because there's so much good sport climbing there. Uh, it's kind of insane. Um, but yeah, whenever I go there, yeah, it's just kind of, I do usually do a little bit of both.

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Sam
Um, and I'll take like a one or two day trip. I haven't been there in a few years, but yeah, i feel like it's usually just like a couple of days I spend up there and kind of poke around and climb stuff that I can do in a session.

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Sam
Um, not really, I just really haven't like spent time like projecting there, which I would love to do at some point, like spend several months up there and just like really dig in because there's a lot of harder lines there that are just inspiring.

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Robert
Yeah.

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Sam
that I would love to like put some time into.

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Robert
Absolutely. When, when was your first trip up there?

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Sam
uh,

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Robert
Like, were you still in college or it a little bit afterwards or like kind of how far into your climbing were you when you,

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Sam
Man, I think I went to the new for the first time. when was it? i must have been in college, yeah.

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Ari Grode
Thank you.

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Sam
I think I went with my buddy Chris and Cody, and we went and did some sport climbing. Yeah, so it was before I had tried climbing.

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Robert
Okay, nice.

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Sam
Yeah.

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Robert
Left the couch cushions at home for that one.

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Sam
Left the couch, coaches didn't home. Yeah, I just took the rack, and, you know, we were like, I mean, still this point, it's like we're probably, you know, just Gumby's, like, just trying figure it out.

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Sam
And, you know, the bolting at the new, like if you're kind of fresh and sport climbing, the bolting can be like kind of intimidating sometimes, I think, um you know, just like spaced out, ah you know, sometimes the first bolts like kind of off the ground and usually a pretty long run to the anchors, but,

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Robert
Yeah, yeah.

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Robert
Yeah.

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Sam
I love it now.

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Ari Grode
I feel like it.

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Sam
Like, it's fun to me, like the way it's bolted. Just like, I mean, i don't know. Doug Reed is a tall dude, and so all his routes, it's like sometimes you like really have to reach for the clip.

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Robert
Oh, yeah.

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Sam
But ah but yeah, i really enjoy it now.

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Ari Grode
Yeah.

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Sam
It's like a little bit more adventurous than and going like somewhere to the red or something like that, where it's like little bit closer.

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Ari Grode
Yeah. I feel like if you come from, if you, if you cut your teeth in North Carolina, the new doesn't feel like all too, you know,

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Sam
Yeah.

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Ari Grode
intimidating because like you said, it's kind of similar.

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Sam
Yeah, it's on par for sure.

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Ari Grode
Yeah. But I can imagine if you came from somewhere else checking out the new, you might be like, Oh, wow.

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00:29:17,410 --> 00:29:18,700
Sam
oh yeah. Yeah, like, holy shit.

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00:29:18,700 --> 00:29:21,190
Ari Grode
hundred foot route with eight bolts on it. Like, Ooh.

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Sam
Yeah. Yeah, yeah. yeah yeah

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Ari Grode
Um, yeah.

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Sam
to

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00:29:25,730 --> 00:29:35,460
Ari Grode
So I wanted to jump in a little bit. I i know you've, you, you do, or you have done, ah you know, a bit of development, both bouldering and, um, and rope climbing.

321
00:29:35,460 --> 00:29:52,190
Ari Grode
Uh, I mean, was that something that kind of just, Started to happen as you kind of progressed, you started to just find some, some open, either open projects or some new areas. Like you want to talk us through a little bit of how you got into maybe, you know, actually developing some areas or or some new routes in some of these areas you climb out a lot.

322
00:29:52,190 --> 00:30:23,600
Sam
yeah um yeah i think uh it was kind of always something like natural for me is just like going out and like seeing something without chalk on it and you're like oh man i wonder if that's been done like this looks really cool and just that whole process of like going up to a blank piece of rock and like trying to figure it out for me has always just been really fun um And, you know, in this area, since there's not guidebooks, you're always kind of like going on a little bit of adventure.

323
00:30:23,600 --> 00:30:36,910
Sam
Like, you know, you see a boulder from the road that you've never seen before. and it's like, gonna go check that out. or just go on a random hike in the woods and find some rock. and It's, yeah, there's a lot of rock in the area.

324
00:30:36,910 --> 00:30:41,850
Sam
And, you know, i would say most of it has probably been climbed on or at least seen by somebody.

325
00:30:41,850 --> 00:30:43,260
Robert
you

326
00:30:43,260 --> 00:30:59,740
Sam
um But there's definitely still stuff that hasn't been done. or been climbed on at all. um And so it's kind of like, you know, it's not like the great frontier of climbing. It's not going to somewhere like Tahoe where there's just like endless boulders everywhere.

327
00:30:59,740 --> 00:31:17,190
Sam
But um there is quite a few, there are quite a few areas here that are, you know, yet to be discovered and, you know, haven't been climbed on. And I think a lot of it is just like the way that the wood's set up here. There's a lot of rotos and like thick woods. And so,

328
00:31:17,190 --> 00:31:28,720
Sam
in order to even find a boulder, like you kind of have to be right on top of it. You know, there's not like really long view, areas where you can just like see everything.

329
00:31:28,720 --> 00:31:44,670
Sam
So you kind of to go hunting for it, which was fun. And yeah, so I guess for me, it was just like kind of a fun way to be in the woods and, you know, find new climbs. And, um, I think as far as like,

330
00:31:44,670 --> 00:32:07,080
Sam
uh, route development, like, honestly, haven't done a ton of route development. Um, but how I started with that was, uh, I think, you know, Mike Graham and true, they were like, they saw me as this dude who, you know, was stronger than them and who could like, you know, climb stuff if they couldn't. So they like, dude, like you should go do this thing because it's sick.

331
00:32:07,080 --> 00:32:10,230
Sam
And like, I'm never going to do it kind of thing, you know, like they're,

332
00:32:10,230 --> 00:32:11,350
Robert
Nice.

333
00:32:11,350 --> 00:32:17,550
Sam
but I think one of the first routes I ever developed was this thing down at the Hemlock Wall, um which is at 221.

334
00:32:17,550 --> 00:32:21,410
Ari Grode
Okay. but Where's the hemlock wall? That's not an area I'm familiar with.

335
00:32:21,410 --> 00:32:23,320
Sam
It's like below 221.

336
00:32:23,320 --> 00:32:25,110
Ari Grode
Okay.

337
00:32:25,110 --> 00:32:41,510
Sam
Getting to it now, I think it's technically on private property. ah At the time, Mike True lived in the neighborhood of the dude who owned it, and he had permission to go down there, so we were able to like drive down kind of close to the crag.

338
00:32:41,510 --> 00:33:02,330
Sam
and get down there that way. Now it's like you would have to hike from 221 to get to it. And it's definitely like a bit of a hike, um pretty steep, but I think you could still get, go there. And I think it's, I can't, don't, don't quote me, but I think it's on public land or it's like right on the line, like crag itself.

339
00:33:02,330 --> 00:33:38,830
Sam
um But yeah, so there's, there's a route there that goes up this like really steep overheating pillar. really cool feature but it was always like all the dudes who were going down they were like you know that's like the future zone and you know we haven't messed with that yet but Mike True was like dude I'm gonna like take you off this and we're gonna you know you're gonna bolt it or we're gonna put it up together and yeah you should do it and so he he like got me really stoked and he was stoked on it so i was just like a pretty easy intro into route development and

340
00:33:38,830 --> 00:34:04,010
Sam
you know, we did it ground up, which was cool. So we're hanging on hooks and drilling bolts and, uh, you know, that whole experience was just like, for me, it was really fun. And just like seeing how everything was done and getting to be, you know, kind of exposed, um, hanging on hooks, drilling bolts, like that that was just a cool experience to me.

341
00:34:04,010 --> 00:34:04,280
Sam
but yeah, so that's like,

342
00:34:04,280 --> 00:34:16,650
Ari Grode
what does i mean what does that What does that look like going up something so steep? i can't and i mean Everybody says you're hanging in on hooks, but like it's not like it's not like hook placements are all, at least from what I understand, it's not just like they're right in front of you and it's like, okay, I'll just hang on, whatever.

343
00:34:16,650 --> 00:34:18,150
Sam
yeah oh yeah dude for sure no i definitely like took several like hook whips yeah

344
00:34:18,150 --> 00:34:25,570
Ari Grode
you know i mean what is i mean Are you ever falling, like ripping some of these hooks out? or like What does that look like?

345
00:34:25,570 --> 00:34:37,160
Robert
And also, and also just to like a little bit of, I was going to say a little bit of context too, like about like, what was the grade for that? Just like, so people can picture like how blank or not blank this wall was.

346
00:34:37,160 --> 00:34:45,010
Sam
uh man i i don't know how hard it is honestly it's like it's hard to grade but i think it's probably in like range um

347
00:34:45,010 --> 00:34:45,620
Robert
Okay.

348
00:34:45,620 --> 00:34:45,780
Ari Grode
Okay.

349
00:34:45,780 --> 00:34:46,560
Sam
um

350
00:34:46,560 --> 00:34:47,190
Robert
So it's thinner.

351
00:34:47,190 --> 00:34:47,230
Sam
It's like, yeah, it's pretty, it was pretty thin for sure.

352
00:34:47,230 --> 00:34:50,260
Robert
Yep.

353
00:34:50,260 --> 00:35:00,690
Sam
was just like, you know, it was kind of like one hard boulder problem in the second, in the middle of it, uh, like a steep wall. And then after that, it's maybe like 12 plus to the top.

354
00:35:00,690 --> 00:35:17,360
Sam
But, um, but yeah, it was, uh, definitely taking some whips on hooks, uh, pulling off choss flakes, you know while hooking. So yeah, it was an an adventure just, uh, going up there and trying to figure it out. But yeah, we placed bolts all the way up. So.

355
00:35:17,360 --> 00:35:17,670
Sam
you know, if you're whipping, it's onto a pole.

356
00:35:17,670 --> 00:35:19,440
Ari Grode
yeah yeah

357
00:35:19,440 --> 00:35:23,440
Sam
It's not like, yeah, I'm just like a endless line of hooks. Um, but yeah.

358
00:35:23,440 --> 00:35:25,530
Robert
Just 14 hooks just ripping after one after another.

359
00:35:25,530 --> 00:35:29,420
Sam
Oh my God. Yeah. I've done that before. And that was, that was scary too, but yeah.

360
00:35:29,420 --> 00:35:32,420
Robert
but when When did that happen?

361
00:35:32,420 --> 00:35:46,340
Sam
Man. So on that, um, the, the brat developed at Hawksville, um, it still a project. Um, yeah, that was, ah yeah, a lot of hooking on that. Um,

362
00:35:46,340 --> 00:35:52,200
Sam
So I, for that route, I don't know if y'all had seen that at all, or there's some photos out there circulating of it.

363
00:35:52,200 --> 00:35:53,810
Ari Grode
i've i've seen I've seen that picture.

364
00:35:53,810 --> 00:35:53,940
Robert
Yep.

365
00:35:53,940 --> 00:35:56,480
Ari Grode
that who took Who took that photo?

366
00:35:56,480 --> 00:35:57,710
Sam
Brian Miller, Fixed Line Media.

367
00:35:57,710 --> 00:35:58,730
Ari Grode
Okay. Oh, man.

368
00:35:58,730 --> 00:35:58,940
Sam
Yeah.

369
00:35:58,940 --> 00:35:59,190
Robert
Okay.

370
00:35:59,190 --> 00:35:59,510
Ari Grode
Fuck. That is such a...

371
00:35:59,510 --> 00:36:01,290
Sam
Yeah. He takes some bangers, man.

372
00:36:01,290 --> 00:36:01,420
Ari Grode
That's it that's a banger photo.

373
00:36:01,420 --> 00:36:01,470
Sam
But yeah.

374
00:36:01,470 --> 00:36:03,130
Robert
Yeah.

375
00:36:03,130 --> 00:36:03,220
Sam
Yeah.

376
00:36:03,220 --> 00:36:08,630
Ari Grode
i've seen I saw that. That was like... I was like, what is this route? That is like absolutely stunning.

377
00:36:08,630 --> 00:36:08,850
Sam
Oh, I know.

378
00:36:08,850 --> 00:36:09,510
Ari Grode
um I've never seen it in person.

379
00:36:09,510 --> 00:36:11,400
Sam
Yeah. Yeah.

380
00:36:11,400 --> 00:36:17,670
Ari Grode
I've never been to the upper Hawksbill wall. ah But yeah. Okay. So that's still a project.

381
00:36:17,670 --> 00:36:30,210
Sam
Yeah, still project. Yeah, I think there was like some misprint in a AAC journal or something of like saying that I had done it. But no, I have not said that just to clear the air there.

382
00:36:30,210 --> 00:36:45,570
Sam
um But yeah, so that route, I mean, developing that, it was, I first wrapped it just to see if there was a route there, basically. You because you look at it from the ground, you're like, holy shit, that is a sick feature. This is crack.

383
00:36:45,570 --> 00:37:15,110
Sam
that kind of runs all the way across the wall, just like really pretty. Um, it's overhung by maybe like 20 degrees. The stone is like really lightly colored, um, is really, really pretty rock. Um, but yeah, so I wrapped down it just to see if it was a thing, you know, and you can't really see it that well because it's overhung. so you can't get into the wall and I didn't want to wrap bolt it. So I just kind of like wrapped down it just to see. And then,

384
00:37:15,110 --> 00:37:32,860
Sam
went out there with my buddy Cody and he belayed me to you know, I kind of like, I've done this before. This wasn't the first time I'd done this, but I went up it and I wanted to aid it just to see like what it was like, you know, kind of like a fun exercise almost just like to go up the route and just check it out.

385
00:37:32,860 --> 00:37:39,400
Ari Grode
Mm-hmm.

386
00:37:39,400 --> 00:37:57,690
Sam
um And I think I had assumed maybe there was a little bit more gear than there actually ended up being, but You know, the crack took some gear and ah I can hold back up a little bit. But yeah, so there's a first pitch that is it's an existing 510 two pitch climb.

387
00:37:57,690 --> 00:38:06,130
Sam
So you climb the first pitch of this 510 and then you traverse left across the ledge to get to the base of where this like thinner crack starts. um And so.

388
00:38:06,130 --> 00:38:11,110
Ari Grode
Is this is this five ten like on the main Hawksville wall? or

389
00:38:11,110 --> 00:38:11,690
Sam
No, it's on this upper tier.

390
00:38:11,690 --> 00:38:16,510
Ari Grode
I've never actually been to Upper Hawksville. so So, okay. So, Upper Tier has some like multi-pitch up there.

391
00:38:16,510 --> 00:38:17,530
Sam
the

392
00:38:17,530 --> 00:38:18,780
Ari Grode
Okay. Gotcha.

393
00:38:18,780 --> 00:38:43,110
Sam
yeah so it's kind of like yeah it's this upper tier and it's so like not a lot of people climb in there like i had only hiked there one time with leaf and we just you know went out there and just basically look at the crag and see what it was like because we've never been up there but um you have to like hike to the top of the mountain and then like kind of scramble down this little like kind of cliff thing to get to it.

394
00:38:43,110 --> 00:38:43,520
Sam
So it's a little bit harder to get to than the rest of the Hawksville zones.

395
00:38:43,520 --> 00:38:45,880
Ari Grode
Mm-hmm.

396
00:38:45,880 --> 00:39:04,590
Sam
So I think that's why people don't climb there as much, but the rock's really good up there. um And but yeah, so the or getting to, you know, you so you do that first pitch of that 510, traverse left, and get to the base of where this route starts.

397
00:39:04,590 --> 00:39:17,300
Sam
um And there's just like a one bolt anchor there. So just go into a bolt and then I ended like pulling the rope through. so there's less drag and just drop the rope back down to the blayer and then they play from the ground.

398
00:39:17,300 --> 00:39:36,660
Sam
Um, but yeah, so i took my buddy Cody out there. I was like, dude, I really need to catch on this. You know, like I want to go check this route out. out He's like, okay, man. And so we go out there and, ah um, I'm like starting up this thing, going aid it. And you know, the crack takes like kind of funky gear for the most part.

399
00:39:36,660 --> 00:40:10,670
Sam
Uh, it's like, I think, mostly offsets um and i don't think i had offsets at the time so i was like placing some like less than ideal pieces of gear in the crack um and then the crack kind of like it like kind of it like flares out a lot towards like the end of it like the last like 20 feet of it like are really flaring and i couldn't find any

400
00:40:10,670 --> 00:40:11,910
Sam
head wall which is like, oh man, i could.

401
00:40:11,910 --> 00:40:13,060
Ari Grode
ah oh hold Hold on a sec.

402
00:40:13,060 --> 00:40:14,380
Robert
i i think we I think we lost that for a second.

403
00:40:14,380 --> 00:40:16,630
Ari Grode
Hold on a sec.

404
00:40:16,630 --> 00:40:17,220
Sam
Okay.

405
00:40:17,220 --> 00:40:20,920
Ari Grode
we Right when you said flaring, we we it cut out for a second.

406
00:40:20,920 --> 00:40:20,970
Sam
Okay.

407
00:40:20,970 --> 00:40:22,970
Ari Grode
yeah

408
00:40:22,970 --> 00:40:27,460
Sam
Let me drink here.

409
00:40:27,460 --> 00:40:28,810
Sam
My back.

410
00:40:28,810 --> 00:40:30,220
Ari Grode
Yeah, yeah. It sounds good now.

411
00:40:30,220 --> 00:40:33,440
Sam
Okay, cool. Yeah, I got a call on my phone. I think maybe that's what did it, but yeah.

412
00:40:33,440 --> 00:40:34,520
Robert
Okay.

413
00:40:34,520 --> 00:40:36,840
Ari Grode
Yeah.

414
00:40:36,840 --> 00:40:50,940
Sam
um But yeah, so the crack was like pretty flaring. um And it was just like, yeah, 20 feet of like flaring crack. I didn't really see any obvious places where I could get gear like aid out the rest of the way.

415
00:40:50,940 --> 00:40:59,490
Sam
ah But straight above, I was like, you know, obviously some hook placements. If you've ever been Hawksbill, there's like a lot of like in cut edges at like at middle Hawksbill, like on the 12 wall, for instance.

416
00:40:59,490 --> 00:40:59,680
Robert
Mm-hmm.

417
00:40:59,680 --> 00:41:03,460
Ari Grode
Yeah.

418
00:41:03,460 --> 00:41:03,800
Sam
So there was a lot of like that sort of feature.

419
00:41:03,800 --> 00:41:05,340
Ari Grode
yeah

420
00:41:05,340 --> 00:41:21,030
Sam
And I was like, okay, i know what those are like. They're or a little in cut. I think I can get some hooks in those. um And then I saw a tiny little crack above that. And then eventually like a little bit bigger crack. i was like, okay, i can get some gear eventually.

421
00:41:21,030 --> 00:41:37,070
Sam
and I'll just have to hook kind of in between these gear placements. um But it ended up being like a lot more hooking and less gear. So i was like, i mean, it's probably like a maybe like 30 foot,

422
00:41:37,070 --> 00:41:48,010
Sam
section where I really didn't get much decent gear at all. And it was like mostly hooks, like a maybe place, like a really small cam.

423
00:41:48,010 --> 00:42:05,900
Sam
And, but yeah, i was just like mostly hooking up this thing. And, uh, it was terrifying, man, honestly. Uh, like, I don't know, like eight grades really, but like, and I don't know if I would hit the ground from there, but it was definitely like, it was always scary and pretty sketchy.

424
00:42:05,900 --> 00:42:07,100
Sam
um

425
00:42:07,100 --> 00:42:07,130
Ari Grode
you didn't You didn't fall off that, did you?

426
00:42:07,130 --> 00:42:08,980
Sam
And I think, no, I didn't fall you're hitting that.

427
00:42:08,980 --> 00:42:10,840
Ari Grode
you you You got got to the top?

428
00:42:10,840 --> 00:42:11,120
Sam
No, definitely not.

429
00:42:11,120 --> 00:42:11,290
Ari Grode
Okay.

430
00:42:11,290 --> 00:42:11,830
Robert
Thank God.

431
00:42:11,830 --> 00:42:11,900
Ari Grode
yeah

432
00:42:11,900 --> 00:42:12,290
Sam
My aid skills were a little bit better at the time.

433
00:42:12,290 --> 00:42:14,460
Robert
Thank God. Oh

434
00:42:14,460 --> 00:42:25,220
Sam
Also, it wasn't like, yeah. But yeah, it was, ah it was heady. And I think Cody was actually more scary than I was. It was like probably like a four hour delay.

435
00:42:25,220 --> 00:42:25,730
Robert
um my goodness.

436
00:42:25,730 --> 00:42:41,840
Sam
Yeah, it was heinous. But yeah, yeah, I made it up. And yeah, that was, i don't know, kind of a fun way to do it. Just like go check it out and, I actually did that same thing on um fire in the hole at Shiprock.

437
00:42:41,840 --> 00:42:42,000
Sam
Just kind of like went up it, ate it up it just to see.

438
00:42:42,000 --> 00:42:42,220
Robert
Okay.

439
00:42:42,220 --> 00:42:45,190
Ari Grode
Yeah, yeah

440
00:42:45,190 --> 00:42:52,420
Sam
And um yeah, I don't know. I don't why decided to do that those routes, but it ended up being kind of a fun way to go check the cliff out.

441
00:42:52,420 --> 00:42:54,600
Ari Grode
yeah.

442
00:42:54,600 --> 00:42:59,950
Ari Grode
Not that I want to move away from this Hawksbill project too much, but that fire in the hole root has always interested me. like it ah For the listeners, i mean it's there's there's the brooch, which is like ah you go up this face and then you break out on this like overhanging, kind of like

443
00:42:59,950 --> 00:43:10,320
Sam
Hmm.

444
00:43:10,320 --> 00:43:13,420
Ari Grode
jug ladder traverse with nothing but air underneath you for like 25, 30 feet.

445
00:43:13,420 --> 00:43:14,700
Sam
Yeah.

446
00:43:14,700 --> 00:43:24,730
Ari Grode
It's amazing. And then the first in flight route kind of stays up more. It's more like Verde, slightly overhung vert climbing. Right. And then it kind of traverses above the brooch and you figured out a way to link the two through what looks like an impossible boulder problem, uh, you know, with, with nothing but air underneath you.

447
00:43:24,730 --> 00:43:32,670
Sam
Yep.

448
00:43:32,670 --> 00:43:35,840
Sam
Yeah. it

449
00:43:35,840 --> 00:43:37,670
Ari Grode
I mean, like, how'd you get the vision for that?

450
00:43:37,670 --> 00:43:45,090
Sam
Yeah. It's super airy, man. Really. Yeah. That's awesome. um It had been tried previously by Pat um and Cruz McLean.

451
00:43:45,090 --> 00:43:48,980
Ari Grode
Okay.

452
00:43:48,980 --> 00:43:56,020
Sam
I know those two for sure tried it. i don't know if anyone else had tried it, but it was, it was like a ah known project. um

453
00:43:56,020 --> 00:43:56,880
Ari Grode
Gotcha.

454
00:43:56,880 --> 00:44:10,070
Sam
And, but yeah, so really, I think it honestly just needed that bolt that's in there. it Cause it was just, Like, I think they were trying to try to climb it fully.

455
00:44:10,070 --> 00:44:10,290
Sam
Um, and it just didn't really like go that way because your handhold, the only handhold you have on the lip of the route is like where you also place gear.

456
00:44:10,290 --> 00:44:18,920
Ari Grode
Okay. Okay.

457
00:44:18,920 --> 00:44:29,490
Sam
And even then it's like not very good. so you kind of have to like get around onto the face to place your first piece. And it's like after the crux of the climb. Um, and if you, if you fell off the crux, yeah, you would like probably swing in and hit the wall below the bridge.

458
00:44:29,490 --> 00:44:35,590
Ari Grode
You would take an absolutely monster whipper if you fell.

459
00:44:35,590 --> 00:44:36,520
Sam
So that's like why it hadn't been done yet.

460
00:44:36,520 --> 00:44:38,070
Ari Grode
Yeah, holy shit.

461
00:44:38,070 --> 00:44:38,440
Sam
So yeah.

462
00:44:38,440 --> 00:44:39,890
Ari Grode
Okay.

463
00:44:39,890 --> 00:44:40,360
Robert
Yeah, seems like a good spot for a bolt.

464
00:44:40,360 --> 00:44:44,620
Sam
So yeah, that bolt helped a lot. Yeah, exactly.

465
00:44:44,620 --> 00:44:44,840
Robert
how long did How long did that one take in terms of, obviously, bolting would be quick, but like how long were you working on that one?

466
00:44:44,840 --> 00:44:50,190
Sam
uh,

467
00:44:50,190 --> 00:45:01,920
Sam
yeah I don't think very long, dude. I think I, uh, so I put that bolt in one day and then I didn't try that day. And I think I did it the next session. So like, it was like a couple of goes, I think, um,

468
00:45:01,920 --> 00:45:06,150
Ari Grode
but the put those bouldering skills to to good use. What is that?

469
00:45:06,150 --> 00:45:06,360
Sam
Yeah, for sure.

470
00:45:06,360 --> 00:45:06,740
Robert
Yeah.

471
00:45:06,740 --> 00:45:10,110
Ari Grode
it's like What is it? V6 or seven boulder problem or something? or

472
00:45:10,110 --> 00:45:12,080
Sam
I'd say it's probably like a V7, yeah. You kind of do like, yeah, you do some cool moves like coming out into the crack that's like perpendicular to the brooch.

473
00:45:12,080 --> 00:45:19,280
Ari Grode
seven

474
00:45:19,280 --> 00:45:34,550
Sam
ah you Do a big cross through move, clip that bolt, and then like do another move out left, and then you have to like do this like wild like ninja kick move where you like kick the wall, like generate some momentum, and then like stab a really low foot.

475
00:45:34,550 --> 00:45:35,430
Sam
and then do like a rose move and get out on the face of first flight.

476
00:45:35,430 --> 00:45:39,150
Ari Grode
Wow.

477
00:45:39,150 --> 00:45:57,210
Sam
And yeah, it's a, it's a pretty, ah yeah, bouldery sequence, like kind of gymnastic, really, really cool route though. ah the I think the true line there though, is if you were to take that and then go out the next roof, like that would be the, the King line, I think there.

478
00:45:57,210 --> 00:45:59,440
Ari Grode
like Like climb up from first in flight instead of outright.

479
00:45:59,440 --> 00:46:00,900
Sam
Yeah.

480
00:46:00,900 --> 00:46:01,030
Ari Grode
Oh, wow.

481
00:46:01,030 --> 00:46:02,270
Sam
Yeah. So it's kind of like, I mean that,

482
00:46:02,270 --> 00:46:04,530
Ari Grode
ah ah

483
00:46:04,530 --> 00:46:15,990
Sam
You know, the the fire in the hole is a cool, like, variation for sure. um But, yeah, in my mind, it, like, I think it needs to go out that next roof. And I really haven't messed with that yet, but it's something need to – it's on the list of of things to do.

484
00:46:15,990 --> 00:46:19,200
Ari Grode
All right.

485
00:46:19,200 --> 00:46:19,460
Ari Grode
Yeah, you got to get Misty Mountain to make a video of at least foot fire in the hole because, man, that's like a picturesque area to shoot on because it's nothing but air for a long ways.

486
00:46:19,460 --> 00:46:27,480
Sam
long list.

487
00:46:27,480 --> 00:46:35,090
Sam
Yeah. Yeah, it is, man. Yeah, it's a beautiful, beautiful zone, fun exposure out there for sure. um

488
00:46:35,090 --> 00:46:36,070
Ari Grode
Yeah.

489
00:46:36,070 --> 00:46:55,400
Sam
But yeah, i actually, so those videos, those Misty videos, I was working at Misty at the time. And, you know, for me at the time, I was like, you know, just dirtbagging, really like not, I was just like, you port rock climber basically. And they were like, yeah, we'll pay you for like a normal day's work to go out and make a climbing video.

490
00:46:55,400 --> 00:46:58,780
Sam
Like, okay, it's sick. That's like dream job, you know?

491
00:46:58,780 --> 00:46:59,170
Robert
ah

492
00:46:59,170 --> 00:47:02,330
Sam
So yeah, that's where all those videos came from. Yeah.

493
00:47:02,330 --> 00:47:03,300
Ari Grode
Oh, nice. ah Okay.

494
00:47:03,300 --> 00:47:03,710
Sam
Yeah.

495
00:47:03,710 --> 00:47:03,990
Robert
that's cool

496
00:47:03,990 --> 00:47:08,460
Ari Grode
So, so let's, should we, I want to get back to that Hawksbill project. So you, you aided it.

497
00:47:08,460 --> 00:47:09,110
Robert
yeah yeah

498
00:47:09,110 --> 00:47:10,060
Sam
Yeah.

499
00:47:10,060 --> 00:47:10,170
Ari Grode
Um, and then what, what did equipping it look like?

500
00:47:10,170 --> 00:47:13,070
Sam
who yeah

501
00:47:13,070 --> 00:47:23,280
Ari Grode
I mean, you said there wasn't much, there was some gear and then there was sections where there was no gear. Uh, so what'd you, did you end up like equipping it? I assume with some bolts, uh, to, to at least in the spots without any good gear.

502
00:47:23,280 --> 00:47:26,130
Sam
Yeah.

503
00:47:26,130 --> 00:47:44,730
Sam
Yeah. For sure. So ah there was an old self-drive bolt ah at the very beginning of the route. And I searched around forever to try to figure out who it was, who put that in. I think it was Ryan Beasley, not a hundred percent sure.

504
00:47:44,730 --> 00:47:55,920
Sam
um I actually needed talk with him and see for sure. But, um, yeah, it was just like an abandoned thing, you know, it's obvious that they put that one bolt in or like, Nope.

505
00:47:55,920 --> 00:48:16,840
Sam
Um, e but yeah, so I replaced that bolt. Um, and then Yeah, and all all the I did all hand drilling too on the route just because it was like you're not allowed technically to have power tools in the gorge or use power tools.

506
00:48:16,840 --> 00:48:21,030
Sam
So, yeah, hand drilled all the bolts from...

507
00:48:21,030 --> 00:48:25,900
Ari Grode
how How long does it take to drill hand drill a bolt in that quartzite?

508
00:48:25,900 --> 00:48:27,050
Sam
ah Man, it's like, um I can't...

509
00:48:27,050 --> 00:48:30,130
Ari Grode
It's got to take forever.

510
00:48:30,130 --> 00:48:37,590
Sam
I don't know. I don't think it's that long. I also had just like been framing... like houses. And so I was like really, really good on the hammer at the time.

511
00:48:37,590 --> 00:48:39,000
Ari Grode
I've been training.

512
00:48:39,000 --> 00:48:41,360
Robert
mans Man's in peak, peak bolting shape right now, dude.

513
00:48:41,360 --> 00:48:50,940
Sam
Dude. Yeah. Peak hammer form. Definitely. ah But man, I would say like maybe 15 minutes per volt or something of like really like kind of getting after it.

514
00:48:50,940 --> 00:48:53,730
Ari Grode
Oh, wow, okay. alright

515
00:48:53,730 --> 00:48:54,580
Sam
Yeah.

516
00:48:54,580 --> 00:49:01,380
Robert
I mean, that's, you said that doesn't take that long, but that, I mean, we've, we've bolted with a hammer drill before. and It's a lot less than 15 minutes.

517
00:49:01,380 --> 00:49:02,410
Sam
Yeah.

518
00:49:02,410 --> 00:49:02,670
Robert
Yeah.

519
00:49:02,670 --> 00:49:05,360
Sam
Oh, yeah, dude. I mean, yeah, it's like 20 seconds. there's but bit

520
00:49:05,360 --> 00:49:06,400
Robert
Yeah.

521
00:49:06,400 --> 00:49:07,970
Sam
um But yeah, so yeah, it was like 15 minutes of just like ting, ting, ting, ting.

522
00:49:07,970 --> 00:49:14,320
Robert
15 minutes? Wow.

523
00:49:14,320 --> 00:49:26,360
Sam
Yeah, definitely a workout. And yeah, so yeah, hand bolted all that stuff or hand drilled. And I went up. Mike Grimm belayed me on it.

524
00:49:26,360 --> 00:49:39,170
Sam
I feel like he also belayed me on fire in the hole when I put that up. He's kind of like the guy who I don't know. He's like the guy who taught me how to do a lot of that stuff. And so it's just cool, like getting to do that with him.

525
00:49:39,170 --> 00:49:53,150
Sam
um But yeah, so yeah hand drilled a bolt at the beginning of the route and the, or at the beginning of the crack and then all gear through the crack to the end of it.

526
00:49:53,150 --> 00:49:58,330
Sam
And then there are, i think four bolts on the head wall and yep.

527
00:49:58,330 --> 00:50:02,050
Ari Grode
that's the section that you ended up hooking through. Okay.

528
00:50:02,050 --> 00:50:14,470
Sam
Yeah, four bolts up there. That's what the crux is as well. And then there's a single bolt anchor because i was hand drilling and I didn't want to put in two. Yeah,

529
00:50:14,470 --> 00:50:15,210
Ari Grode
Okay.

530
00:50:15,210 --> 00:50:17,420
Sam
yeah but eventually I might go back and put another one in.

531
00:50:17,420 --> 00:50:18,840
Robert
Bear.

532
00:50:18,840 --> 00:50:22,680
Sam
But i don't know, the rock's really good. Yeah. um

533
00:50:22,680 --> 00:50:30,400
Ari Grode
Yeah. For, for those who haven't seen it, I'll, we'll, we'll put it in the show notes, but this picture of, of, of this project is insane. Just to...

534
00:50:30,400 --> 00:50:48,130
Sam
Yeah, it's insane, man. It's like, and it's one of those things. It's so hard. It's such a hard route, but it's always just like in the back of my mind. Like, even if I haven't tried it in a while, it's still like in the back of my mind is like an active project that, you know, I need to get done.

535
00:50:48,130 --> 00:50:50,050
Ari Grode
Have you gotten pretty close or what? I mean, how how long you been trying that thing?

536
00:50:50,050 --> 00:50:53,480
Sam
i would say no, I've not gotten close. I haven't tried it in a couple of years.

537
00:50:53,480 --> 00:50:55,840
Ari Grode
Okay.

538
00:50:55,840 --> 00:51:01,450
Sam
You know, I've done a lot of moves, but like maybe like two hung it once or something is like as close as I got.

539
00:51:01,450 --> 00:51:03,970
Ari Grode
Okay.

540
00:51:03,970 --> 00:51:07,400
Ari Grode
Do you have any sense of how like hard it is? i mean...

541
00:51:07,400 --> 00:51:11,800
Sam
Man, think it's probably like in the 14 BC range, I would say, likely.

542
00:51:11,800 --> 00:51:12,470
Ari Grode
Okay.

543
00:51:12,470 --> 00:51:14,030
Robert
Wow, that's pretty stout.

544
00:51:14,030 --> 00:51:24,110
Sam
Yeah, it's pretty stout. It's just like sustained crimpers ah through that head wall to like maybe like a V10 boulder problem, like at the very end. No rest in between.

545
00:51:24,110 --> 00:51:25,440
Ari Grode
Heartbreak.

546
00:51:25,440 --> 00:51:37,210
Sam
So it's like, it's hard. And that's, I think that's why I haven't been back out there or spent much time out there is because I know that I need to be like peak form, even to like get on it and have a good session.

547
00:51:37,210 --> 00:51:46,060
Sam
and it's like, yeah, I just haven't felt that way really as far as like being peak, like power endurance, crimp form.

548
00:51:46,060 --> 00:51:46,070
Ari Grode
Has ah anyone else tried it with you?

549
00:51:46,070 --> 00:51:47,460
Sam
Um, uh, I think, ah yeah a couple of people have like got on it with me for sure.

550
00:51:47,460 --> 00:51:53,340
Ari Grode
or

551
00:51:53,340 --> 00:51:54,050
Ari Grode
Okay.

552
00:51:54,050 --> 00:52:10,550
Sam
Um, trying to think who's been out there, man. I really don't remember, honestly. think Cody tried it a little bit. And then my friend Amy, she tried it some. um But yeah, I mean, there's always plans, you know, like I feel like every year I talk to people and they're like, you let's go try that thing.

553
00:52:10,550 --> 00:52:20,520
Sam
I'm like, dude, I'm psyched, you know, let's go out. And it just like, hasn't happened. don't know. There's like so much to do. It's hard to, it's just hard, man. There's just so much, you know, so many projects. And I ended up getting stuck kind of like bouldering just because,

554
00:52:20,520 --> 00:52:25,090
Ari Grode
Okay.

555
00:52:25,090 --> 00:52:28,040
Sam
I don't know, the past few years I've been working a lot and having the business, you know, it's like definitely a little bit less time to get out and, you know, spend a full day at the crag.

556
00:52:28,040 --> 00:52:35,530
Robert
Thank you.

557
00:52:35,530 --> 00:52:46,210
Sam
So bouldering ends up being the obvious option there. um But yeah, mean, it's it's definitely the the route and the thing I want to do the most for sure.

558
00:52:46,210 --> 00:52:47,010
Ari Grode
okay Yes.

559
00:52:47,010 --> 00:52:47,370
Sam
Yeah.

560
00:52:47,370 --> 00:52:56,900
Ari Grode
Well, I'm stoked to hear youve you. You're still working on that. Cause I mean, I saw that picture, like actually I've got your Instagram up right now is a 282 weeks ago. So the things, yeah, I wasn't sure.

561
00:52:56,900 --> 00:53:00,150
Sam
No, yeah. Yeah, it's been a while.

562
00:53:00,150 --> 00:53:03,440
Ari Grode
I wasn't sure if you were still working on it or anything, but that's cool.

563
00:53:03,440 --> 00:53:05,820
Sam
Yeah, I mean, like, not actually working on it, but, like, mentally working on it, you know, for sure.

564
00:53:05,820 --> 00:53:07,570
Ari Grode
But, but like, yeah, you didn't, you didn't like move away and it's just abandoned.

565
00:53:07,570 --> 00:53:10,710
Sam
Yeah.

566
00:53:10,710 --> 00:53:10,800
Ari Grode
um

567
00:53:10,800 --> 00:53:11,690
Sam
Yeah, not abandoned.

568
00:53:11,690 --> 00:53:12,010
Ari Grode
Yeah.

569
00:53:12,010 --> 00:53:13,890
Sam
I moved closer, actually. I live, like, close to the gorge now.

570
00:53:13,890 --> 00:53:15,210
Ari Grode
Yeah.

571
00:53:15,210 --> 00:53:16,250
Sam
So, yeah, that was kind of the back of my head when I bought bought the place I live.

572
00:53:16,250 --> 00:53:19,230
Ari Grode
Okay.

573
00:53:19,230 --> 00:53:19,880
Sam
I'm like, dude, and I need to, like, do this thing.

574
00:53:19,880 --> 00:53:21,880
Ari Grode
Oh, sick. Okay.

575
00:53:21,880 --> 00:53:24,470
Sam
Yeah.

576
00:53:24,470 --> 00:53:24,950
Robert
when's ah When's the, when's the peak time for you to get on it?

577
00:53:24,950 --> 00:53:27,990
Ari Grode
Can I ask?

578
00:53:27,990 --> 00:53:29,770
Sam
uh spring or fall like it needs to be like kind of perfect conditions i think for me to have a chance at it yeah definitely definitely dude

579
00:53:29,770 --> 00:53:35,640
Robert
Okay. Yeah.

580
00:53:35,640 --> 00:53:47,170
Ari Grode
Can I, can I ask about a couple other, uh, projects you were involved in that, that have gone down? Um, there's, there's two that are on my mind that I really want to like, just selfishly learn more about, but I think they'd be sick to talk about, uh,

581
00:53:47,170 --> 00:53:48,060
Sam
yeah hmm

582
00:53:48,060 --> 00:54:03,960
Ari Grode
Ishmael, the the Pat Goodman, like i mean when i i remember when I bought the High Country Guidebook that they put out recently, you start seeing you start looking at areas like Moon Rock, Stack Rock, like all these areas that where it seems like mainly developed by Pat Goodman.

583
00:54:03,960 --> 00:54:09,110
Ari Grode
And they're all these like nails hard, 512, 513 RX type of climbs, but the stack rock right off the, the two 21 highway, you know, has that infamous, uh, Ishmael route.

584
00:54:09,110 --> 00:54:16,470
Sam
Yeah.

585
00:54:16,470 --> 00:54:21,710
Ari Grode
And I know you're like one of the only people that's repeated it. Um, am I talking about that a little bit?

586
00:54:21,710 --> 00:54:21,850
Sam
Yeah, dude, for sure.

587
00:54:21,850 --> 00:54:27,670
Ari Grode
Like what got you, mo what got you motivated for it? And I mean, what that roots actually like and,

588
00:54:27,670 --> 00:54:42,280
Sam
i mean, man, Pat is just a legend as far as this area and putting up hard, sketchy routes. like It's kind of insane, the amount of stuff that he did in that zone of like, you know, stack rock, moon rocks.

589
00:54:42,280 --> 00:55:06,960
Sam
um And they're all like true to that same style of, you know, just using whatever gear is available and placing a bolt maybe, but probably not, you know? So it's, a yeah, it's it's really cool what he did there. And i mean, I just really appreciate the style of development that he did.

590
00:55:06,960 --> 00:55:41,480
Sam
you know it's it's really easy i think for folks to come in and say you know this would be an awesome sport crag or you know why and aren't there bolts here and you know i get that for sure because it is like more accessible and more people would climb on it but don't know thinking about the area as a whole and those areas in particular it's almost like it's an extension of the bouldering around the area so yeah know for instance like moon rocks it's right next to all the 221 bouldering, like the main areas of 221.

591
00:55:41,480 --> 00:55:59,710
Sam
And it's essentially like those routes and that crag are, it's just a big boulder. And so, you know, you're looking at this rock and it's like, you know, instead of following a line of bolts, you're trying to figure out, you know, where the climb goes by looking at the features of the rock.

592
00:55:59,710 --> 00:56:30,920
Sam
And i don't know, there's just something really cool about that to me. of, you know, going bouldering on 221 and then hiking 200 yards to Mood Rocks. And it's like, oh, sick. This is like the same thing that I was just doing, just 60 feet tall, you know? um So, yeah, it's kind of like ah I don't know, it's like a cohesive experience for me going to those crags um and climbing on those routes that are basically just boulders.

593
00:56:30,920 --> 00:56:42,590
Sam
um But, Yeah, so Ishmael, I got psyched on that. I think after seeing, i mean, one, seeing the route itself.

594
00:56:42,590 --> 00:57:05,630
Sam
is because it's a beautiful line, you know, it's like, goes through these dihedrals on the, uh, towards the bottom, you know, kind of traverse and climb up through a couple of dihedrals. And then there's just like this beautiful splitter crack section, um, with like this awesome, like sloper ball, just sitting in the middle the route. That's like, it's just such a sick grip.

595
00:57:05,630 --> 00:57:22,980
Sam
It's like this, perfect sloper. it would be like on a, you know, gym climbing wall or something. just like made to climb on. um And yeah, it just, it's a beautiful line, man. So I think I really got inspired by seeing it and then seeing photos of Pat on it.

596
00:57:22,980 --> 00:57:34,390
Sam
um And it was like, know, I gotta go check this thing out. And so, yeah, I mean, projecting that is just like a top rope to the bunch, you know, it's definitely a head point.

597
00:57:34,390 --> 00:57:51,050
Sam
I'd be extremely impressed if someone went ground up on that. That would just be an insane testament of skill if you were able to go up to that ground up. And I mean, people probably could do it, but it would be insane just because like the gear is tricky.

598
00:57:51,050 --> 00:58:03,840
Sam
the you know the The sequences are pretty intricate. but But yeah, man. So yeah, Top Rope did a bunch, got the gear dialed.

599
00:58:03,840 --> 00:58:04,600
Sam
And and

600
00:58:04,600 --> 00:58:07,230
Ari Grode
What's the gear like? is there Is there much? Because it gets like 13CX-ish rating.

601
00:58:07,230 --> 00:58:10,640
Sam
know

602
00:58:10,640 --> 00:58:11,280
Ari Grode
So I just can imagine there's not much.

603
00:58:11,280 --> 00:58:29,300
Sam
Yeah, I think, yeah, like 13 CRX, yeah. And so, yeah there's not much gear, dude. There's like, yeah, really minimal gear on the first. So you climb probably like maybe 20 feet and then you get 0.3 that protects you for like five feet.

604
00:58:29,300 --> 00:58:52,040
Sam
And then you're like kind of soloing through this like 12 minus section through the dihedrals. to like a pretty good horizontal break uh from there you get this like really specific nut that pat made and i borrowed the nut for the ascent and i think everyone who's done it has also used the same nut like hammered a hex to like fit in this little slot that like i mean it fits in this slot but

605
00:58:52,040 --> 00:59:00,190
Robert
That is...

606
00:59:00,190 --> 00:59:14,940
Sam
Like, i don't even know if like the gear would hold honestly, cause it's like in kind of this, like, it's almost like a flake. It's like kind of attached, but not like totally attached to the wall. So it's like, it would probably hold a fall, but I would not want to test it.

607
00:59:14,940 --> 00:59:17,110
Sam
I don't think anyone has tested it. I don't know for sure, but maybe Pat tested it.

608
00:59:17,110 --> 00:59:19,010
Ari Grode
Thank

609
00:59:19,010 --> 00:59:19,340
Sam
I don't know.

610
00:59:19,340 --> 00:59:19,880
Robert
Yeah. you You mentioned you were chatting with Pat about the route quite a bit on that.

611
00:59:19,880 --> 00:59:22,580
Sam
Um,

612
00:59:22,580 --> 00:59:28,980
Robert
Like, did you ever ask, Oh, when he handed you that nut, like, is this actually, does anyone know if this works or like, yeah.

613
00:59:28,980 --> 00:59:40,480
Sam
Man, I didn't bother to ask. I don't know. It's one of those things. Like, hopefully you wouldn't fall on that piece. Like, yeah. But yeah, no, it's not something you want to test really.

614
00:59:40,480 --> 00:59:41,610
Robert
Yeah. Yeah. well Little, little mental piece for sure.

615
00:59:41,610 --> 00:59:55,340
Sam
Um, a little mental piece. Yeah. It kind of makes you like, you can get it from like this resting stance and it kind of makes the resting stance a little more restful. Cause you're like, okay, i have something that like would probably hold me.

616
00:59:55,340 --> 01:00:09,690
Sam
um But yeah, and then, so yeah, you get this like resting stands place on nut. And then above that is like a really small cam and kind of like a flaring spot. It's like another one you really don't want to test.

617
01:00:09,690 --> 01:00:23,460
Sam
um Yeah, like really don't, I never tested that one either. ah But then you do the first crux of the route, which is probably like a v seven um up to that sloper ball.

618
01:00:23,460 --> 01:00:23,550
Ari Grode
Okay.

619
01:00:23,550 --> 01:00:36,840
Sam
So you're doing youre doing that V7 on gear that you really don't want to fall on. um And I don't know if Pat fell there. I imagine i think he think he maybe said he did. I forget, man. like You'll have to talk to him about it.

620
01:00:36,840 --> 01:00:37,080
Sam
but but But yeah, so you do that hard sequence.

621
01:00:37,080 --> 01:00:43,460
Robert
Yeah, yeah.

622
01:00:43,460 --> 01:00:59,940
Sam
And then you get like the first good gear of the route, which is a stopper. And I backed it up with like ah a double zero, like above it. So it wouldn't come out. Cause it's like, it's kind of in a flaring space where you really like any upward pull would definitely pop it out.

623
01:00:59,940 --> 01:01:13,130
Sam
So yeah get a good nut and then double zero above it. And then red point crux of the route is it's like cool, like Gaston sequence through some small crimps. um And that was the only piece I actually fell on.

624
01:01:13,130 --> 01:01:21,190
Sam
So one red point attempt, I fell there. And then I sent on my next go.

625
01:01:21,190 --> 01:01:22,810
Sam
But yeah.

626
01:01:22,810 --> 01:01:27,440
Ari Grode
but When you, when you fell off that thing, was there a moment where you were like, everything's going to pull and I'm going to hit the ground or, or, or, or was it kind of just, you were locked in and you fell and like, it was over, you know, like the thing caught you.

627
01:01:27,440 --> 01:01:30,230
Robert
I'm dead.

628
01:01:30,230 --> 01:01:35,260
Sam
Yeah, man. Yeah. You know, it's like,

629
01:01:35,260 --> 01:01:35,830
Sam
yeah, I think at that point, man, I was in a pretty good headspace for that sort of thing.

630
01:01:35,830 --> 01:01:39,840
Ari Grode
and

631
01:01:39,840 --> 01:01:51,360
Sam
Like, I had been doing other like trad routes and been just like climbing a lot of trad at the time and falling on gear, really just like feeling comfortable.

632
01:01:51,360 --> 01:01:51,500
Sam
And so that, that piece in particular, I was like, I felt good about, i was like, okay, this isn't going to come out.

633
01:01:51,500 --> 01:01:56,360
Ari Grode
Okay.

634
01:01:56,360 --> 01:02:06,740
Sam
And I like kind of committed myself to the route as well. was like, I'm going to do this thing. And you know, if I fall here, like it'll be okay. So yeah.

635
01:02:06,740 --> 01:02:07,520
Ari Grode
Gotcha. Man, that's sick.

636
01:02:07,520 --> 01:02:16,280
Robert
How long, how long were you, like you said, your head pointed, obviously and dropping on the top rope. Like what was that process in terms of length? Like how long did that whole thing take?

637
01:02:16,280 --> 01:03:13,650
Sam
Man, it probably took me, I think it took me multiple seasons. Like I think the first season I tried it and top roped it some and didn't like feel close like even really like considering a lead. um And then I think, sorry, I think a couple of years went by and that's like when I was like doing that road trip out West, living in a van climbing on all these areas like, you know, the Valley and J tree and getting used to some of that trad and, you know, doing like a little bit of like, you know, soloing and stuff and J tree. And, um, you know, that, I think that experience really put me in a good headspace and just spending that much time climbing. Like I felt just like really solid. And then coming back from that is when I really started projecting it and like set forth with the intention of just doing it.

638
01:03:13,650 --> 01:03:25,980
Sam
And yeah, so it came back and then probably put, I don't know, maybe like six sessions into it and ended up leading it.

639
01:03:25,980 --> 01:03:27,040
Sam
So yeah, I think I did it on top rope clean once and then I was like ready.

640
01:03:27,040 --> 01:03:31,530
Ari Grode
ah

641
01:03:31,530 --> 01:03:34,210
Sam
I think I like knew that I was ready for it.

642
01:03:34,210 --> 01:03:34,430
Robert
Super cool.

643
01:03:34,430 --> 01:03:34,720
Ari Grode
How many ascents has that had?

644
01:03:34,720 --> 01:03:35,470
Sam
Yeah.

645
01:03:35,470 --> 01:03:38,440
Ari Grode
was that Were you like the second or third? OK.

646
01:03:38,440 --> 01:03:45,470
Sam
So I got three ascents, I think, kind of in the same like couple weeks of it getting put up. Dave Sherritt, Pat Goodman, and Pat Goodman first, and then Dave Sherritt and Mike Stamm also repeated it.

647
01:03:45,470 --> 01:03:53,410
Ari Grode
okay

648
01:03:53,410 --> 01:03:53,730
Ari Grode
okay

649
01:03:53,730 --> 01:04:01,420
Sam
um And man, if y'all are looking for a local legend that no one knows anything about, Mike Stamm is the dude you want to talk to. e

650
01:04:01,420 --> 01:04:02,130
Ari Grode
OK.

651
01:04:02,130 --> 01:04:19,480
Sam
Man, like, yeah. He is just a savant of whatever he wants to do, like whatever he wants to be good at, he's good at. And, you know, whether it be building tree houses or rock climbing or playing music, like he's, yeah, he's badass.

652
01:04:19,480 --> 01:04:19,630
Sam
Um, yeah.

653
01:04:19,630 --> 01:04:20,610
Ari Grode
Sick.

654
01:04:20,610 --> 01:04:34,570
Sam
And he put up, he's put up several other routes in the area that haven't been repeated and some highball stuff that hasn't been repeated. um, you know, like this V10 axiom that hasn't been repeated. It's like insanely highball and sketchy.

655
01:04:34,570 --> 01:04:40,100
Sam
um And yeah, yeah. But anyways, yeah, those dudes were all kind of climbing all those routes at the same time, like Luna, um Jade Rabbit at Moon Rocks.

656
01:04:40,100 --> 01:04:40,340
Robert
i so

657
01:04:40,340 --> 01:04:49,050
Ari Grode
Right.

658
01:04:49,050 --> 01:04:50,030
Ari Grode
Okay. Yeah.

659
01:04:50,030 --> 01:04:59,450
Sam
Yeah, so they were all like climbing together, I think a lot and just, you know, putting up these gnarly headpoints.

660
01:04:59,450 --> 01:04:59,540
Ari Grode
I mean, speaking of moon rocks, uh, Rob, I don't know if you had ah another question about that.

661
01:04:59,540 --> 01:05:04,030
Robert
That's awesome. Go ahead.

662
01:05:04,030 --> 01:05:07,550
Robert
No, no, go for it. Yeah, that's where I was headed.

663
01:05:07,550 --> 01:05:19,330
Ari Grode
I was going to say, speaking of Moon Rocks, I mean, the the other thing that I wanted to ask about was, was it were you part of the party? i know you got the second ascent of that the what used to be the Corridor Project.

664
01:05:19,330 --> 01:05:19,460
Ari Grode
Was it you and a buddy that that did that?

665
01:05:19,460 --> 01:05:20,930
Sam
Yeah.

666
01:05:20,930 --> 01:05:22,590
Ari Grode
or um Okay.

667
01:05:22,590 --> 01:05:39,010
Sam
Yeah. So me and my buddy Daylon went out there. Daylon Gray, who is a crusher that probably not a of people know about, but he's super strong, really good boulder, really good route climber, just like can crimp so hard and doesn't even understand how strong he is.

668
01:05:39,010 --> 01:05:50,760
Sam
um But yeah, so him and I went out there. when was this? This was like probably four years ago. three, four years ago.

669
01:05:50,760 --> 01:05:56,960
Sam
And, uh, you know, the project, it was like longstanding project. Pat made a video about it. Um, you know, yeah, the video is really good.

670
01:05:56,960 --> 01:06:00,960
Ari Grode
Yeah. There's like a, I can link that video. There's a hidden video of Pat doing that.

671
01:06:00,960 --> 01:06:01,740
Sam
I mean, it goes through all the, it gives you all the beta on the route.

672
01:06:01,740 --> 01:06:04,130
Ari Grode
Yeah. Yeah.

673
01:06:04,130 --> 01:06:04,280
Sam
And so we had that to go off of.

674
01:06:04,280 --> 01:06:07,590
Ari Grode
And you know, it must be hard because there's bolts in it and Pat's working it.

675
01:06:07,590 --> 01:06:08,570
Sam
Yeah, exactly.

676
01:06:08,570 --> 01:06:08,840
Ari Grode
So

677
01:06:08,840 --> 01:06:13,010
Sam
Yeah. Yeah. You actually put bolts in that one. That would be, yeah.

678
01:06:13,010 --> 01:06:14,090
Ari Grode
yeah.

679
01:06:14,090 --> 01:06:36,110
Sam
But, uh, yeah. it's So it's a mixed line. Um, think three volts and then the rest is gear. um But yeah, so we knew about the route ahead of time from that video and from talking with Pat about it. And it was one those things it's like he was like, it was such a important and like meaningful project to him.

680
01:06:36,110 --> 01:06:48,690
Sam
like it was hard like to really want to do it. Cause I was like, man, i like want Pat to do this thing. um But he was kind of point at a point in his career he was like kind of like backing off a little bit.

681
01:06:48,690 --> 01:06:53,820
Sam
And um yeah I talked to him about it, and he was like, dude, you should go do that thing. So um we went out and tried it.

682
01:06:53,820 --> 01:06:56,230
Ari Grode
you

683
01:06:56,230 --> 01:07:07,650
Sam
And yeah, I mean, and a we probably put in that first season, i think I put like six sessions, five or six sessions into it.

684
01:07:07,650 --> 01:07:18,690
Sam
and Got super close. Daylon and I were both trying it. we were both getting really close. And then Daylon ended up doing it, which was sick.

685
01:07:18,690 --> 01:07:46,710
Sam
um And yeah, I came back the next year and I think like maybe like second session on it, ended up doing it. um And yeah, man, it's a really awesome route. Like in this corridor, you can see it's like a mirrored image image on the other side of the corridor of the route itself uh so it's just like it's just cool like you can see like how the rock broke apart you know there's like obvious features that like translate from side to side um the yeah that aspect of it's really cool and then um yeah it's just hard man it's like classic 221 bouldering on a rope um yeah

686
01:07:46,710 --> 01:07:59,440
Ari Grode
Okay, yeah.

687
01:07:59,440 --> 01:08:12,460
Ari Grode
is Is that thing, i mean, it gets, you guys gave it 14A, so it's obviously pretty nails, but is it is it like dangerous at all? Because you're, I mean, you're in a corridor, so is there is there like potential to hit the other wall or is it, is it i've I've been in that corridor, but it's hard to imagine what a fall actually would would be like.

688
01:08:12,460 --> 01:08:17,150
Sam
oh

689
01:08:17,150 --> 01:08:20,060
Sam
So on the lower part of the route, it's definitely safe.

690
01:08:20,060 --> 01:08:20,480
Ari Grode
Okay. Okay.

691
01:08:20,480 --> 01:08:31,310
Sam
You know, there's like one piece of gear, like maybe 10 feet up or something. And it's like, it's pretty moderate getting to the first bolt, maybe like 11, 511 or something to the first bolt.

692
01:08:31,310 --> 01:08:47,270
Sam
And there really turns on. um And then after that the crux, which is at the third bolt, you kind of do this like traversing bit where you like grab an undercling and step on this like sloping ledge and go right.

693
01:08:47,270 --> 01:08:54,330
Sam
And I think if you fell there, you could maybe hit the slab. um That's kind of the only spot that you could hit the slab.

694
01:08:54,330 --> 01:08:55,760
Ari Grode
yeah Okay, okay.

695
01:08:55,760 --> 01:08:55,910
Sam
um

696
01:08:55,910 --> 01:08:56,690
Ari Grode
Gotcha.

697
01:08:56,690 --> 01:09:06,930
Sam
Yeah. Or like placing that next piece even, but it's like, it backs way off there. It's like post-crux and you're kind of like, if you make it there, you're probably not going to fall.

698
01:09:06,930 --> 01:09:07,720
Ari Grode
Yeah.

699
01:09:07,720 --> 01:09:07,980
Sam
Yeah.

700
01:09:07,980 --> 01:09:08,720
Ari Grode
Cool.

701
01:09:08,720 --> 01:09:08,920
Sam
It's a little little, little sketchy, not very sketchy though.

702
01:09:08,920 --> 01:09:11,780
Ari Grode
Yeah, i remember seeing...

703
01:09:11,780 --> 01:09:16,760
Ari Grode
I remember seeing that video of Pat. That's a pretty well done video. They get like close-ups of all those holds, and they just look fucking atrocious.

704
01:09:16,760 --> 01:09:19,120
Sam
Oh yeah.

705
01:09:19,120 --> 01:09:19,510
Ari Grode
Yeah.

706
01:09:19,510 --> 01:09:20,230
Sam
Oh yeah, dude.

707
01:09:20,230 --> 01:09:20,390
Ari Grode
ah

708
01:09:20,390 --> 01:09:27,460
Sam
like What does he call it? Like the quarter hole? It's like the negative of a quarter. And yeah, that hole's nasty.

709
01:09:27,460 --> 01:09:29,180
Robert
Oh my gosh.

710
01:09:29,180 --> 01:09:31,530
Sam
Yeah.

711
01:09:31,530 --> 01:09:37,140
Ari Grode
Oh, that's cool. Yeah. I don't know if that thing's getting any more love since you guys did it, but it'd be cool.

712
01:09:37,140 --> 01:09:38,790
Sam
yeah I think some folks have tried it.

713
01:09:38,790 --> 01:09:39,430
Ari Grode
and Okay, cool.

714
01:09:39,430 --> 01:09:50,390
Sam
Yeah. Yeah, some folks have tried it. um I don't know how much or like it really people have gotten like super stoked on it. But yeah, I know it's been tried some.

715
01:09:50,390 --> 01:09:52,090
Ari Grode
Nice.

716
01:09:52,090 --> 01:09:52,380
Robert
Super cool.

717
01:09:52,380 --> 01:09:52,410
Ari Grode
Um,

718
01:09:52,410 --> 01:09:59,020
Robert
I know you also mentioned that another one that you kind of contributed was but pyramid scheme. You want to walk us through that one as well?

719
01:09:59,020 --> 01:10:00,510
Sam
Oh, yeah.

720
01:10:00,510 --> 01:10:03,110
Robert
What was what was that whole process like?

721
01:10:03,110 --> 01:10:18,430
Sam
Oh man, so that thing, ah God, it was just like sitting right next to like some of the most classic boulders on 221 that people climb that all the time. Like it's right below Mic Space, which is like this classic well-known V8.

722
01:10:18,430 --> 01:10:32,230
Sam
um And yeah, it's just like right there, kind of in the main zone. And I walked down there one time and looked it, I was like, this is sick and needs to get done. And it's, don't know y'all have bouldered on like the iceberg boulder,

723
01:10:32,230 --> 01:10:33,030
Sam
and

724
01:10:33,030 --> 01:10:33,470
Robert
No, I haven't.

725
01:10:33,470 --> 01:10:33,840
Sam
the classic like V5, like it's like, so it's right below ship rock actually.

726
01:10:33,840 --> 01:10:38,110
Ari Grode
The only.

727
01:10:38,110 --> 01:10:38,750
Sam
Yeah.

728
01:10:38,750 --> 01:10:39,480
Robert
Okay.

729
01:10:39,480 --> 01:10:39,850
Ari Grode
okay

730
01:10:39,850 --> 01:10:53,190
Sam
yeah So you can like hike from ship rock to it. It's like directly down the hill. So it's that same sort of stone. It's like really hard, um really hard rock with like the like quartz features in it.

731
01:10:53,190 --> 01:11:12,770
Sam
So it's just like a really pretty face with um kind of like a perfect set of holds and Yeah, man, just like saw it and was like, this needs to get done and asked around. And I talked to Mike Stam about it. And he was like, oh, yeah, that thing. you know like I think we tried it, but it's never been done.

732
01:11:12,770 --> 01:11:12,960
Sam
and um

733
01:11:12,960 --> 01:11:14,770
Ari Grode
Is that a boulder or a root?

734
01:11:14,770 --> 01:11:26,350
Sam
it's a boulder problem. Yeah, so it's a boulder problem. And it's just like, um don't know, it's just cool to do that. classic, like right in the main area, 221. Kind of surprising that it hadn't been done before.

735
01:11:26,350 --> 01:11:30,820
Sam
And so, yeah, it was just like a fun one to go out and open up for people.

736
01:11:30,820 --> 01:11:31,350
Robert
Nice.

737
01:11:31,350 --> 01:11:35,190
Sam
And now it's, you know.

738
01:11:35,190 --> 01:11:38,440
Ari Grode
Is there any like footage or anything of that that we could share?

739
01:11:38,440 --> 01:11:44,470
Sam
Yeah, there's one. There's definitely footage of people climbing it. I think I got one on my Instagram, me doing First Ascent.

740
01:11:44,470 --> 01:11:47,020
Ari Grode
ah Okay, okay. That was sick.

741
01:11:47,020 --> 01:11:53,240
Sam
Yeah. And but yeah, it's been done quite a few times now. um And just like.

742
01:11:53,240 --> 01:11:53,840
Ari Grode
Okay, I just pulled it up.

743
01:11:53,840 --> 01:11:54,970
Sam
Yeah.

744
01:11:54,970 --> 01:11:55,350
Ari Grode
Yeah, that's a beautiful face.

745
01:11:55,350 --> 01:11:56,090
Sam
Yeah.

746
01:11:56,090 --> 01:11:57,020
Ari Grode
Holy shit.

747
01:11:57,020 --> 01:12:02,340
Sam
Yeah, it's beautiful, man. It's like the way it's set up with like those slashes and quartz. It's just like really cool.

748
01:12:02,340 --> 01:12:05,770
Ari Grode
It looks like tiger stripes almost.

749
01:12:05,770 --> 01:12:07,290
Sam
Yeah.

750
01:12:07,290 --> 01:12:16,520
Ari Grode
Oh, sick. Speaking of hard bouldering, like you you recently did one of the, was it third or fourth ascent of Bonesaw?

751
01:12:16,520 --> 01:12:20,010
Sam
Yeah, man. did Bonesaw recently. i don't know how many a sense it's gotten. um

752
01:12:20,010 --> 01:12:20,900
Ari Grode
that was ah That's a Taylor McNeil boulder, right?

753
01:12:20,900 --> 01:12:24,050
Sam
Honestly. Yep.

754
01:12:24,050 --> 01:12:24,140
Ari Grode
and In Linville.

755
01:12:24,140 --> 01:12:27,060
Sam
Taylor and Neil Boulder. Yeah, man. yeah

756
01:12:27,060 --> 01:12:30,390
Ari Grode
is that Is that still the hardest boulder in NC?

757
01:12:30,390 --> 01:12:32,000
Sam
No, no. So there's there's several now that are harder.

758
01:12:32,000 --> 01:12:34,520
Ari Grode
Okay, okay.

759
01:12:34,520 --> 01:12:34,690
Sam
um Yeah.

760
01:12:34,690 --> 01:12:36,680
Ari Grode
Oh, really? I didn't realize that. Okay. but

761
01:12:36,680 --> 01:12:56,720
Sam
Yeah, man. Taylor's been putting up some hard stuff. Also Elijah Kaiser, um dude who's from Boone, he's put up some hard stuff too. He recently did this like B15 the Monster Boulder. forget what he called it, but it is, i mean, it's sick and really hard looking.

762
01:12:56,720 --> 01:13:13,720
Sam
Um, so he did that. Taylor did a V15 as well. Apparatus. Uh, it's like, um, it's like really unique, uh, like wave feature that, I mean, it's pretty stunning.

763
01:13:13,720 --> 01:13:26,390
Sam
Um, it's just like kind of just one singular feature of slopers and pinches. Um, so yeah, there, there's several hard lines and I think even in,

764
01:13:26,390 --> 01:13:31,470
Sam
Some stuff around Moore's Wall got put up recently. That's like v fifteen um Yeah, there's, yeah, man, the past few years have been quite a few hard lines going up, which, i mean, yeah.

765
01:13:31,470 --> 01:13:36,300
Ari Grode
Oh, really? Okay.

766
01:13:36,300 --> 01:13:42,350
Ari Grode
Oh, that's good but's cool to see. I mean, yeah. NC's stacked with good, especially the boon area. Holy shit.

767
01:13:42,350 --> 01:13:42,370
Sam
Oh, yeah.

768
01:13:42,370 --> 01:13:47,490
Ari Grode
I i followed a... um I think it's Matt Nunes on Instagram.

769
01:13:47,490 --> 01:13:47,520
Sam
Oh, yeah, he crushes.

770
01:13:47,520 --> 01:13:48,720
Ari Grode
And just like over and like, i was like, where are all these problems that I've never heard of that are just like, you know, V13, V11, just like, there's many out of that.

771
01:13:48,720 --> 01:13:56,270
Sam
Yeah.

772
01:13:56,270 --> 01:13:56,510
Sam
Yeah.

773
01:13:56,510 --> 01:13:59,350
Ari Grode
Yeah. Yeah. there's so many out of that

774
01:13:59,350 --> 01:13:59,900
Sam
So many. Yeah.

775
01:13:59,900 --> 01:14:01,220
Ari Grode
and that

776
01:14:01,220 --> 01:14:01,650
Sam
don't know how many V14s there are now in Boone, but probably at least like 10 in that range.

777
01:14:01,650 --> 01:14:07,890
Ari Grode
yeah

778
01:14:07,890 --> 01:14:09,080
Sam
So yeah, there's some strong dudes, man.

779
01:14:09,080 --> 01:14:09,810
Robert
I

780
01:14:09,810 --> 01:14:18,210
Sam
I feel like per capita Boone has like a really like solid climber base. People climbing like upper grades.

781
01:14:18,210 --> 01:14:21,220
Robert
i mean, it makes sense with the concentration, you know, like you said, even, even some of the rope routes just feel like longer extensions of the boulder.

782
01:14:21,220 --> 01:14:24,780
Sam
Yeah. Yeah.

783
01:14:24,780 --> 01:14:26,270
Robert
And so it's like, that kind of makes sense.

784
01:14:26,270 --> 01:14:27,350
Sam
Yeah,

785
01:14:27,350 --> 01:14:30,430
Robert
like, this is the style lock in, you know?

786
01:14:30,430 --> 01:14:32,940
Sam
yeah yeah, yeah, totally.

787
01:14:32,940 --> 01:14:33,060
Ari Grode
And such an it's such an underground scene, too.

788
01:14:33,060 --> 01:14:35,020
Sam
Yeah.

789
01:14:35,020 --> 01:14:37,570
Ari Grode
like it's cool It's been really fun to explore this.

790
01:14:37,570 --> 01:14:37,620
Sam
Yeah.

791
01:14:37,620 --> 01:14:42,300
Ari Grode
because it's i mean i Rob and I lived in North Carolina for ah years. and and it's just like

792
01:14:42,300 --> 01:14:44,680
Sam
Okay.

793
01:14:44,680 --> 01:14:47,060
Ari Grode
i mean Obviously, we' we'd climb out at 221.

794
01:14:47,060 --> 01:14:47,170
Sam
know

795
01:14:47,170 --> 01:14:55,040
Ari Grode
i didn't do much bouldering out there, mainly Ship Rock, all the crags on 221 and stuff, Linville. Yeah. Yeah.

796
01:14:55,040 --> 01:14:56,120
Robert
Sunken treasure special spot in my heart.

797
01:14:56,120 --> 01:14:58,300
Ari Grode
there' yeah yeah

798
01:14:58,300 --> 01:14:59,770
Sam
Sunken Treasury, yeah, that's a great one, man.

799
01:14:59,770 --> 01:15:00,410
Robert
Yeah.

800
01:15:00,410 --> 01:15:01,390
Ari Grode
Yeah.

801
01:15:01,390 --> 01:15:01,440
Sam
Yeah.

802
01:15:01,440 --> 01:15:10,510
Ari Grode
But like, it's cool to explore that area. Cause there's really not a lot of, I mean, there's so many hard climbs out there and I feel like it, it doesn't get talked about as much, uh, or at least a scene is the scene is very like underground.

803
01:15:10,510 --> 01:15:13,420
Sam
It doesn't, man. Yeah, it It is.

804
01:15:13,420 --> 01:15:18,400
Ari Grode
Like, you know, if you're in the know, if you, if you know the people like, uh, so yeah.

805
01:15:18,400 --> 01:15:22,410
Sam
Yeah, yeah. Yeah, if you know, you know, or you got to talk to somebody about it. There's not a lot of information out there.

806
01:15:22,410 --> 01:15:25,140
Robert
Right.

807
01:15:25,140 --> 01:15:37,340
Sam
But yeah, there is, there's a lot of hard stuff and, uh, you know, the seasons are, can be interesting and tricky sometimes too, you know, to, to really get the weather window you need in order to do something.

808
01:15:37,340 --> 01:15:50,930
Sam
um but that being said, I mean, there's kind of like this area almost has four season climbing, you know, like the winter time's good spring and fall are awesome summertime. Occasionally like it's ship rock, you'll get days where you need a jacket.

809
01:15:50,930 --> 01:15:59,740
Sam
So it's, uh, Yeah, it's it's pretty awesome in that regard for sure. But yeah, you know, you can also go through like a month straight of rain. So yeah, it can be tough.

810
01:15:59,740 --> 01:16:00,460
Ari Grode
Yeah.

811
01:16:00,460 --> 01:16:03,520
Robert
Yeah, for sure.

812
01:16:03,520 --> 01:16:06,130
Sam
um Yeah.

813
01:16:06,130 --> 01:16:15,020
Robert
Yeah. You mentioned, um, i mean, I think that might be an interesting, like you mentioned, obviously you had that, that stint where you were living in the van going West and like checking all these other places for you on that.

814
01:16:15,020 --> 01:16:17,060
Sam
hmm.

815
01:16:17,060 --> 01:16:30,880
Robert
Like, it it seems like it wasn't enough of an appeal to like keep you away from Boone, but what were some of the spots where, when you went away that they stood out and then ah ultimately like, why'd you end up choosing to go back to Boone and posting up there?

816
01:16:30,880 --> 01:16:56,930
Sam
um Man, yeah there's god yeah, there's so much climbing out west and so much good climbing, you know, like the valley, mean, all time, like world-class, big wall stuff there. ah And, I mean, the cragging, the bouldering, ah you know, going up to Wollumine and climbing, know, multi-pitch there were bouldering up there.

817
01:16:56,930 --> 01:17:11,560
Sam
There's just like – so much in that California region that, uh, is just, I mean, it's so good, you know, Tahoe as well, where you can go out and find new boulders every day if you wanted.

818
01:17:11,560 --> 01:17:27,050
Sam
um and the rock quality is really good. um and I mean, yeah, it's just like, yeah, I mean, I don't know. There's so much out there that's, it's like really good and fun. And, uh, I don't know, man, I don't honestly, like,

819
01:17:27,050 --> 01:17:34,810
Sam
I think there's a few things that but drew me back here. ah i mean, one being like the homies I have here, know, I have a bunch of good buddies and, you know, it's just like nice seeing them and hanging out and, um and also the climbing, you know, like the rock here to me is like some of the best and most interesting that I've climbed on and diverse as well.

820
01:17:34,810 --> 01:17:54,060
Robert
Yeah.

821
01:17:54,060 --> 01:18:04,460
Sam
ah Like within this area, you just like the small radius of the high country of North Carolina, there's a lot of different styles of climbing.

822
01:18:04,460 --> 01:18:04,890
Robert
For sure.

823
01:18:04,890 --> 01:18:24,430
Sam
Um, and i don't know, it's just interesting. And it always feels like you're going on a little adventure to you know, if you're going out like hunting for vulvas or going to a new zone, it's just like these little like micro adventures you go on every day.

824
01:18:24,430 --> 01:18:35,640
Sam
so ah Yeah, man. I don't know. There's like, and something just like special about the area, you know, like I love being out West and I love traveling out there and and visiting.

825
01:18:35,640 --> 01:18:49,470
Sam
Um, but something about like the greenness and like how ah alive these mountains feel is like special to me. Um, and yeah, I don't know. I just like, don't know. I just really like it here.

826
01:18:49,470 --> 01:19:02,770
Sam
And, um, yeah, throughout the seasons, you know, like now I, uh, The past, like, three or four years, I've been taking, like, six months off of climbing and riding my mountain bike in the summer.

827
01:19:02,770 --> 01:19:14,720
Sam
And, you know, that's a fun thing, too. You know, it's, like, the mountain biking here is, like, kind of world class as well. Like, really, really good riding.

828
01:19:14,720 --> 01:19:23,680
Sam
And, yeah, so there's just a lot here, a lot to do. The summer times are awesome, like, going to the river, hanging out.

829
01:19:23,680 --> 01:19:36,950
Sam
And, yeah, I don't know. It's like, I feel like I can almost live anywhere and enjoy it, but something about this area is like, just kept bringing me back.

830
01:19:36,950 --> 01:19:47,580
Robert
I don't know, man. that That feels like a really good spot to wrap up. I mean, I... With having lived in North Carolina, I can certainly relate to that. Like it is like a very, uh, there's something special about those mountains that often gets overlooked.

831
01:19:47,580 --> 01:19:48,680
Robert
So I think you kind of hit the nail on the head there.

832
01:19:48,680 --> 01:19:52,570
Sam
Yeah. Yeah.

833
01:19:52,570 --> 01:19:56,940
Ari Grode
Hell yeah. Yeah, man. This has been super fun to dive into.

834
01:19:56,940 --> 01:19:57,880
Sam
Yeah, man.

835
01:19:57,880 --> 01:19:58,170
Robert
Yeah, this is great.

836
01:19:58,170 --> 01:20:01,380
Ari Grode
the The rhododendrons, dive deep into the rotos of ah the high country area because, man, there's there's so much ah there's so much good stuff hidden in there, both from a history standpoint and ah and a you know quality root standpoint.

837
01:20:01,380 --> 01:20:01,770
Robert
Yeah.

838
01:20:01,770 --> 01:20:01,920
Sam
if

839
01:20:01,920 --> 01:20:03,930
Robert
Yeah.

840
01:20:03,930 --> 01:20:05,710
Sam
Love him and hate him, dude, for sure.

841
01:20:05,710 --> 01:20:07,020
Robert
Yeah.

842
01:20:07,020 --> 01:20:12,350
Sam
you know, God.

843
01:20:12,350 --> 01:20:14,020
Ari Grode
So, yeah, I appreciate you taking everybody through this.

844
01:20:14,020 --> 01:20:16,880
Sam
Cool, man.

845
01:20:16,880 --> 01:20:22,840
Sam
Yeah, absolutely. Yeah. Stoked you guys wanted to chat. and Yeah. It's good getting to talk to y'all.

846
01:20:22,840 --> 01:20:23,260
Robert
Yeah, man, that was great.

847
01:20:23,260 --> 01:20:26,880
Ari Grode
Yeah. and anything Anything else you want to shout out, I guess, at the end here?

848
01:20:26,880 --> 01:20:31,180
Sam
Oh, God. i don't know, man. i mean, ah feel like a little bit of an imposter being on the podcast, you know?

849
01:20:31,180 --> 01:20:35,110
Ari Grode
I know we hit.

850
01:20:35,110 --> 01:20:35,160
Sam
It's just like, I feel like there's so many, like, more qualified individuals, but ah but I appreciate the shout, and yeah, good getting to talk.

851
01:20:35,160 --> 01:20:35,180
Robert
that's That's crazy.

852
01:20:35,180 --> 01:20:36,130
Ari Grode
No way.

853
01:20:36,130 --> 01:20:47,870
Ari Grode
No way. Yeah.

854
01:20:47,870 --> 01:20:48,160
Ari Grode
Sick. Yeah.

855
01:20:48,160 --> 01:20:48,510
Robert
No, think you've definitely earned a spot on this podcast to say the least.

856
01:20:48,510 --> 01:20:51,740
Ari Grode
Yeah.

857
01:20:51,740 --> 01:20:52,520
Robert
But yeah, we're just glad you're up for it.

858
01:20:52,520 --> 01:20:54,590
Sam
Oh, man.

859
01:20:54,590 --> 01:20:55,430
Robert
I'll have to ah to thank Anna Lee for putting us in contact.

860
01:20:55,430 --> 01:20:58,760
Sam
Heck, yeah.

861
01:20:58,760 --> 01:20:59,230
Robert
But yeah, that was great.

862
01:20:59,230 --> 01:21:00,740
Sam
Oh yeah, Anna Lee, man. Yeah, haven't talked to her in a long time, but yeah, it's a cool connection.

863
01:21:00,740 --> 01:21:03,560
Robert
yeah

864
01:21:03,560 --> 01:21:08,890
Robert
Yeah, yeah. I've been, I'm working on this climbing film with Rab. So like I was just chatting with her and it just came up that ah i lived in North Carolina.

865
01:21:08,890 --> 01:21:12,660
Sam
Okay.

866
01:21:12,660 --> 01:21:21,890
Robert
She's like, oh, was in Boone. was like, oh, that's cool. She's like, yeah, I used to climb my mom. oh And then like your name came up. i was like oh, we're like trying to get him on the pod. She's like, yeah, I'll ask around. like, great.

867
01:21:21,890 --> 01:21:22,220
Sam
Heck yeah.

868
01:21:22,220 --> 01:21:22,860
Robert
ah But yeah, she's she's super cool.

869
01:21:22,860 --> 01:21:24,140
Sam
Cool, man.

870
01:21:24,140 --> 01:21:25,970
Robert
She's super cool. Yeah.

871
01:21:25,970 --> 01:21:27,180
Sam
Hell yeah.

872
01:21:27,180 --> 01:21:28,180
Robert
Yeah.